AKA get a better camera. Btw u look sexy in FB.

I will be purchasing a better camera in the future. Don't fall for Page's tricks about your good looks!

This post was edited by Chantal7 on Dec 7 2010 10:52pm

He's hawt, especially because he's .
I compliment everyone: Eek's sexy body (i wouldn't forget you babe), you're genuinely beautiful, and CitizenScuba is a cancerous Nikon user.

You have complete control over everything in Av that you do in M. The difference is that the camera will set the exposure..but that doesn't mean you don't have control over it. You can adjust it whenever you want, and it's faster than doing it in M.

I'm not saying there aren't times when M is the mode to use, but Av is generally considered the standard shooting mode. Some pros (like Scott Kelby) actually leave their camera in P mode while walking around so that if something quickly happens they can snap the shot in P so they don't miss it, then switch to Av and shoot it more correctly if there's time..

This post was edited by bergmann on Dec 8 2010 07:35am

and pushing another button and roll the wheel to change iso.

this multi spot metering is really nice feature, just click on things you want a calculation between to get the exactly correct exposure and there you have it.for example with portraits with shadow half the face, push it twice on the face area that it well lit, once on the shadow and once on the background, and voilá, you got a perfect exposure. pick the f-number you want to get for the shot, and roll the wheel to change iso to get the correct exposure time. now if the light stays the same and you want to shoot more, just change to M with same exposure time, f-number and iso, that you had on the multi spot readings. or if you take just few shots, leave the shutter button half way after shot and metering stays the same.

what metering mode do you use? even with M mode your meter might not give the correct readings if you dont meter is precisely from the right spot. if you meter it wrong(/meter reads unwanted light for correct exposure) and you dont know how much you need to under/over expose, you need to check the picture if it had the correct exposure, change the setting and maybe do this couple of times. also if the light isnt constant you need to do this all the time.

You're quite a cutie too




err :/

If the camera is setting your exposure, that means you don't have complete control. I don't see what is hard about flicking the thumb wheel and top wheel simultaneously. It's a cop out for people who don't know their camera or know how to shoot.

He goes from P to AV to shoot it more correctly? Why not just shoot it in M so it's correct in the first place? Wow.




I always set my spot metering to my focal point or I use a light meter (when I can). Then I check the histogram (in RGB mode) and the picture is in thumbnail. I hardly even look at the shot, the exposure is what's important.

The 1ds Mark III has the most amazing colour and tone depth. You can really push the exposure hard to the right and still pull it down in camera raw.

This post was edited by lithfkn on Dec 8 2010 06:20pm

The camera will automatically adjust the shutter speed to give what it thinks is the correct exposure. If you want to change that, all you have to do is knock it up or down a few stops and it will adjust the shutter speed in order to do this. You would be doing this exact thing in M mode, except it's a lot slower. You get to the same result either way.



It's not that it's difficult. It's that it simply isn't necessary in most cases.



Simply untrue. That you would say this suggests you may not know as much as you think you do about how your camera works. If you understand how each mode works, you can expect which settings will be applied. If you know what your end result needs to be, why would you use a slower method to get there?



Yes. Leaving your camera in M mode is a great way to miss split-second shots. Pros know that the shot that sells might last for a split second and there's not time to fumble with settings. Getting the shot is the most important thing; most of the rest you can adjust in post processing.

By spot metering or using a light meter, aren't you doing exactly what the camera would be doing in AV mode? It's determining what it thinks is the proper exposure, albeit not as exact as a light meter. From there, you can just set the exposure bias to what you think would be correct for that scene.

Isn't it the same as using manual mode where your adjusting shutter speed and aperture to the in camera meter?

i don't even meter anymore. After the 10k'th manual calibration you sorta know it all.

How is that a compliment? Haha...