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Jul 6 2011 04:28pm
Quote (Chantal7 @ Jul 6 2011 11:50pm)
Haha ^_^ Thanks!

You use manual with action shots? Or? I find it really annoying to switch settings all the time... sometimes the clouds go over the sun, etc. I've just had bad luck with action & manual. :lol:  I might give it another try when the light isn't always changing on me.


To be honest, I don't know how to change it to a different setting lol

If the light is ever changing I guess tv mode will be your best bet!
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Jul 6 2011 08:08pm
Quote (lithfkn @ Jul 6 2011 04:28pm)
To be honest, I don't know how to change it to a different setting lol

If the light is ever changing I guess tv mode will be your best bet!


Good to know! That's why I put it there. What benefit am I getting when using manual instead of Tv? I want to know the difference!


Quote (onepagememory @ Jul 6 2011 01:52pm)
Auto mode is more prone to error than you are. It may fuck up on the exposure on a would-be vital shot. You shouldn't really have to change settings much anyway, even in 'action shots.' This is not a wedding we're talking about :D


:S Manual makes me take less pictures.

This post was edited by Chantal7 on Jul 6 2011 08:08pm
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Jul 6 2011 09:32pm
Quote (Chantal7 @ Jul 6 2011 07:08pm)
Good to know! That's why I put it there. What benefit am I getting when using manual instead of Tv? I want to know the difference!




:S Manual makes me take less pictures.


manual gets the job started somtimes.
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Jul 6 2011 11:22pm
Quote (Chantal7 @ Jul 7 2011 12:08pm)
Good to know! That's why I put it there. What benefit am I getting when using manual instead of Tv? I want to know the difference!


Benefits of manual for this specific shoot? Consistant exposure if the lighting is consitant. If the light is every changing then use TV and select spot meter on your camera. This will adjust exposure to where you are focusing (AI servo is a must too)
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Jul 7 2011 01:10am
Quote (lithfkn @ Jul 6 2011 11:22pm)
Benefits of manual for this specific shoot? Consistant exposure if the lighting is consitant. If the light is every changing then use TV and select spot meter on your camera. This will adjust exposure to where you are focusing (AI servo is a must too)


Ah, good point. Why did I forget about that? :lol: Thanks, I will definitely use AI Servo next time and manual, see how it goes! Be prepared for more tubing photos! I am kind of confused on the select spot meter on my camera ?
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Jul 7 2011 05:05am
Quote (Chantal7 @ Jul 7 2011 05:10pm)
Ah, good point. Why did I forget about that? :lol:  Thanks, I will definitely use AI Servo next time and manual, see how it goes! Be prepared for more tubing photos! I am kind of confused on the select spot meter on my camera ?


AI Servo is a must!

To select Spot meter there should be a button on your camera that looks similar to this [(·)] Hold it down and and scroll with your wheel/dial until it goes to [ · ]

Selecting this will ensure that your camera will meter where your focus point is.

This post was edited by lithfkn on Jul 7 2011 05:05am
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Jul 7 2011 04:03pm
D is my favorite with all the water splashing!
I do a lot of action shots lately, and always shoot in speed priority (Tv) to get my 1/1000 sec.
Even on a sunny day, I set the iso at 200, 400 on a cloudy day.
Don't worry about being level all the time, it can be corrected afterwards, just don't miss the half second shot you would miss if you start worrying about the leveled horizon ;)
Use the middle focus point with your camera, crop after :p
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Jul 8 2011 10:45pm
Aside from what has already been said... What I have gathered from shooting match horse races (I get paid for this) and Ironman triathlons (just do it for fun when my dad competes) is that action is unlike most other types of photography. With most other types of photography usually you try and meet your goal/ desired shot in one exposure. Shooting action is different because what can happen cannot be predicted. You can pre-visualize how a shot will look, you can know what settings need to be used to achieve what you have in mind, then you can go out and try to create what you had in mind. But with each fraction of a second your scene can drastically change, that change is usually something you want to try and capture, as it is usually the excitement of that action.

One thing you're need to get really used to is panning. Panning is the bread and butter of action photography, and I don't care what any one else says on that. Obviously one thing you can do is sit and machine gun your shutter as you pan with your subject. This way you'd not miss any possible action, but you'd fill up memory quicker than desired. I'll admit that this is how I first started with all of the action type shooting I did. Eventually, what you want to do is to get to a point where you're able to pan with your subject while staying in focus without shooting unnecessary shots. Only start to hold down your shutter when the action that you absolutely want to capture starts to unfold. This can take an incredible amount of patience depending on what you are shooting. This is just like everything else in life, it will take an amount of practice. Wether it is a big or small amount will depend on the person which in this case is you.


Oi. One last thought/ reminder. Remember to follow through when you are panning.
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Jul 11 2011 09:04pm
Quote (MotherOfTwo @ Jul 7 2011 04:03pm)
D is my favorite with all the water splashing!
I do a lot of action shots lately, and always shoot in speed priority (Tv) to get my 1/1000 sec.
Even on a sunny day, I set the iso at 200, 400 on a cloudy day.
Don't worry about being level all the time, it can be corrected afterwards, just don't miss the half second shot you would miss if you start worrying about the leveled horizon ;)
Use the middle focus point with your camera, crop after :p


Haha - that is very true. At least I can correct the horizon later, in most cases. I love lightroom for that, makes life so much easier !

You are lucky you can boost your iso - my camera performs HORRIBLY with higher iso settings, so I try not to use anything but 100 :(

Quote (CitizenScuba @ Jul 8 2011 10:45pm)
Aside from what has already been said... What I have gathered from shooting match horse races (I get paid for this) and Ironman triathlons (just do it for fun when my dad competes) is that action is unlike most other types of photography. With most other types of photography usually you try and meet your goal/ desired shot in one exposure. Shooting action is different because what can happen cannot be predicted. You can pre-visualize how a shot will look, you can know what settings need to be used to achieve what you have in mind, then you can go out and try to create what you had in mind. But with each fraction of a second your scene can drastically change, that change is usually something you want to try and capture, as it is usually the excitement of that action.

One thing you're need to get really used to is panning. Panning is the bread and butter of action photography, and I don't care what any one else says on that. Obviously one thing you can do is sit and machine gun your shutter as you pan with your subject. This way you'd not miss any possible action, but you'd fill up memory quicker than desired. I'll admit that this is how I first started with all of the action type shooting I did. Eventually, what you want to do is to get to a point where you're able to pan with your subject while staying in focus without shooting unnecessary shots. Only start to hold down your shutter when the action that you absolutely want to capture starts to unfold. This can take an incredible amount of patience depending on what you are shooting. This is just like everything else in life, it will take an amount of practice. Wether it is a big or small amount will depend on the person which in this case is you.


Oi. One last thought/ reminder. Remember to follow through when you are panning.


Thanks for the info scuba... the whole panning thing is new to me. But it's kind of hard to do it with being on a boat? I spose when they move a little to the side I can do that. I wonder if it was the wrong servo I was using as to when I tried the whole focus and pan my subject, but it kept bleeping in and out of focus, and finding a new focus ... it was frustrating. That part could have been the wrong setting I was using. What do you mean by follow through? I didn't know you couldn't follow through?
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Jul 12 2011 09:50am
Quote (Chantal7 @ Jul 11 2011 08:04pm)
Thanks for the info scuba... the whole panning thing is new to me. But it's kind of hard to do it with being on a boat?  I spose when they move a little to the side I can do that. I wonder if it was the wrong servo I was using as to when I tried the whole focus and pan my subject, but it kept bleeping in and out of focus, and finding a new focus ... it was frustrating. That part could have been the wrong setting I was using. What do you mean by follow through? I didn't know you couldn't follow through?


Honestly with being on a boat panning with tubers behind the boat should be quite easy. You just have to be panning left to right and right to left. Also, the tubers only have a limited distance they can go to either side. That should make where you need to be panning very predictable. The only thing that should give you issues is keeping the camera at the level you want it at, with the boat hitting chops. It will just take you some practice to get used to is all.

Following through is simple. So say your subject is moving to the left. You are obviously panning to the left. When you press down on the shutter, you need to make sure that you are still moving your camera to the left. You are just following through as your are capturing. That will give you the best results. Sometimes if you stop panning as you hit the shutter your subject will have moved where you don't want it in the frame, even partially out of the frame. Just like shooting guns, you have to follow through in order to hit a moving target. Remember to match panning speed with subjects movement speed as well, that should be the most difficult thing to get used to.
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