I Live in southern IL. We have some pretty good routes at Jackson Falls that i will be climbing, ranging from 5.8s-5.13s. Going to be doing some climbing and caving in TN and KY also.
Been researching on what shoes to get for a few days now. I checked into the Evolvs defys that you mentioned, they looked great performance and comfort wise but they are notorious for smelling absolutely putrid after very little use. Seems this is caused by the lining that Evolv used in them.
I am leaning towards getting the Fire Ten Galileos
http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/Shoes/Climbing_Shoes/Velcro/Galileo_Climbing_Shoe_2927.htmlonly down sides with them is they are not the best for toe hooking and are a little pricey. They are supposed to be super sticky tho.
Also was considering the La Sportiva Miuras
http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/Shoes/Climbing_Shoes/Lace_Up/Miura_Shoe_303.html.
These would probably be better performance wise, but I like the fact that Galileos do not stretch as much and the break in time is less.
I am going to invest into some ropes but not sure which yet. Probably a good static and a bi-color 10.1 Sterling dry rope to start with.
http://www.backcountry.com/sterling-biathlon-pro-10.1mm-ropealso thinking about getting a 5 step ladder for spots that I cannot yet do.
Probably will invest into cams too for when I am doing off trail hiking and encounter a obstacle that has not yet been routed. Not sure what to get yet tho, have not researched into them.
Also i ordered a copy of The Self Coached Climber after hearing good things about it.
About to make my own wall too for practicing on. however, if i do make my own wall i am going to probably need another pair of shoes since i don't want to waste the Galileos or Miuras on anything besides outdoor climbing.