i have 3+ cavair blue hdd's, and none of them make that clunking noise, was the packaging damaged at all or did you accidentally drop/ hit the drive at all when you were unpackaging it? are all 4 screw mounts tightened down? it could be the case, as i know there are some cases out there that pick up vibrations from optical drives and hdd's.. ive found in the past, if you take a little bit of hard stock cardboard and slip it into the bay with the hard drive it minimises the vibration and noise transfer. a few layers of electrical tape will also work, striped down each side of the hard drive ( better option over cardboard). you'll just have to cut out the holes for mount screws down either side.

if the clunking/whine gets any worse within the next week, im assuming the hard drive was damaged somewhere in shipping, and you'll want to RMA it.

e/ the cavair blue is the best choice right now for a 1tb mechanical hdd.. for 2tb its seagate, 3+tb is wd black editions

This post was edited by Canadian_Born on Mar 7 2016 04:37am

The noise has gone away completely idk :(, ive backed up everything 4 times at different intervals of putting shit on there and it seems fine. I think its all gonna work out just fine

im on it right now it has replaced my other pc*

that feel when u were lucky to see 60 fps with drops into the 20's on lowest settings in 768p on league, and then you join a game on a new pc with the same settings and your getting 560 fps lol...

This post was edited by blunderwonder2 on Mar 8 2016 02:34am

Best feeling with new pc/big upgrade after a long time with same setup

Your case does support: Micro ATX / ATX. The reason for the standoffs and this: Rule of thumb: one standoff for each motherboard screw...no more, no less. ...is for physical support of the motherboard. It keeps the motherboard from "flexing" when you install things like RAM, vid cards, CPU coolers, etc. "Flexing" a motherboard too much can crack/break the tiny circuit runs in a motherboard, which will kill the motherboard.

As for the drivers, it always best to use the motherboard CD that came with the motherboard. Then, if any problems arise, try the newer drivers on the manufacturer's website.

Microsoft is very busy trying to force everyone to use Windows 10. They've even gone so far as to pay manufacturer's to make Win 7 drivers, hard if not impossible to find.


As to the power supply, it is supposed to be installed with the fan pointing down, if your case has air holes underneath. The reason for this, is that it doesn't starve the vid card for the airflow IT needs.
Generally the case air flow should be like this: Intake at front and bottom, exhaust at top and rear. This gives the hot components like the CPU, the vid card, and the motherboard itself, plenty of airflow.

As for the hard drive noise, there are usually two reasons...

1. Bad hard drive. Which I do not believe is your issue.
2. Various mounting methods.

Most newer cases have the hard drives mounted on flexible trays, to prevent vibration...like this:




The hard drive LED should light, when w/e you are doing, is reading/writing to the hard drive. It's not a major thing, but can help sometimes. Once you get used to a build, excessive hard drive activity, may help to notify you of an infection or similar.


Last of all, when you buy a complete computer build (that includes a monitor) for $600...you should expect a few issues, or difficulties.


Glad it all worked out for you though. Might be a good idea to call Thermaltake and ask about the standoff issue. Sooner or later, having the motherboard NOT mounted properly, will result in "flexing" of the motherboard, as I mentioned above.

Ghot is right. If not mounted properly;y, you could break one of the traces in the PCB rendering the motherboard useless and out of warranty. It's definitely not worth risking it especially when it's close to the CPU socket or DIMM slots.