Quote (Rikuo @ Jun 6 2014 02:03am)
The "Do one side at a time" Trick, Only works if the PO didnt already fubar the entire drum system.
They're needlessly complicated @@
Ended up putting the little star gear adjuster screw thing on the wrong side so it was turning both ways instead of only making the brakes tighter, Spent an hour in the dark in the gravel drive way swapping it to the right side.
Vice grips? I used a scredriver lolol
Vise grips give much more control. I remember the star adjuster as well, lol.
NEXT TIME...take off both wheels, rear or front, then do one at a time and remember they are mirror images of each other.

On the rear drum brakes the rear wheel will sometimes become rusted to the drum hub (which is actually the axle), if you ever run into that...use like a 3lb. short handled sledge hammer to crack it loose, by whacking the side of the tire..aka, break the rust joint.
/e The rear wheels are usually the only ones that will have this problem, as the rear brakes only need done once for every 2-3 times you do the fronts.
Fornt brakes stop 70% of the vehicle weight, whereas the rear brakes stop 30% of the vehicle weight. So ofc, the fronts need done 2-3 times more often than the rears do.
Lastly, I highly recommend the rivet-less brake pads, they have much less tendency to score the drums than the riveted ones. It's usually a good idea to do the wheel bearings at the same time, since they are cheap, and you have it all torn apart anyways
/ee But you deserve a pat on the back anyways, most ppl who have never done drum brakes, fail miserably the 1st time they try. 
/eee Drum brakes are like the Rubiks cube of the 70's and before.
This post was edited by Ghot on Jun 6 2014 12:24am