Got the rest of my parts in finally:

My screenshot editor fucked the quality, oh well. This is the RX unit for my wireless controller modchip. I need to build the TX unit then program them. Then switch out these for smaller micro controllers that take up less space.



This post was edited by AbDuCt on Mar 4 2014 08:07pm

Ah, fresh baked, white breadboard...it bring back memories

ghot fresh baked wut?

The white rectangular object in the pic above is called a ...breadboard

is it some sort of old pcb?

LOL, no, it is a board made with holes to accept pins, rather than wires that need soldered. It it for creating new circuits, with the ability to reposition wires as deemed necessary, w/o a lot of hassle.

Once the circuit is complete and tested and works...then the circuit is xferred to a true pcb and the wires are soldered.

This pretty much.

Once I get these confirmed working I have to port them over to a newer smaller MCU, then I will draw up a schematic for a friend and he will get some PCBs made for me at a fab house its like 12$ for 10 of them to get made pre-drilled and all. Just need to solder the components to them.

Currently cutting my N64 controller cable and wiring it in and double checking my cables so I don't fry anything. Don't want to pipe 3.3 volts into something that doesn't want it.

One fried AMega8 and a few hours of frustration later, I now have my wireless n64 controller modchip working on a breadboard.

The LM317 regulators I bought for cheap from chinkland are really fucked. They output 3.3v like I set it but as soon as you put any load on them at all they drop to like 0.7V. Decided well fuck maybe it's my wallwart supplying the regulator with vIN so I replace it. I re-hooked everything up and still getting the voltage drop, but 10 seconds later I start seeing 14V across my power bus on my broad board. Needless to say the AMega8 didn't like that at all and it's toast.

So now I am just robbing 3.3v from the consoles rail and everything is working correctly. Might take some photos or a video or something I don't know. Going to convert them over to the smaller ATINY24 I bought which will require some reprogramming.

At least I didn't pay for that AMega8 though I am on my last one so hopefully I don't fuck up again.

This post was edited by AbDuCt on Mar 5 2014 03:11am

Top breadboard is TX (sending the controllers configuration) and the bottom one is RX (receiving the configuration). The top micro controller pretends it is the console to the MCU inside the controller to tell it to "give me an update on what is being pressed" just as the controller would, ever 16ms. The bottom micro controller is pretending to be the controller sending the "buttons pressed" every time the console requests it. Meanwhile both micro controllers are chatting at each other sending and receiving the current buttons being pressed. Works fairly well.

Now I just need to switch both Micro controllers to an ATiny24 controller and add/remove some features from the existing code.

Edit:: Those flexible wires look like ass, but oh my god are they easy to use. I may buy some U shapped solid wire jumpers though because these are hard to troubleshoot when you are trying to follow a bunch of wires weaving through each other.

This post was edited by AbDuCt on Mar 9 2014 08:22pm

So what's next the AES (AbDuct Entertainment System)