So my monitor died. The monitor sort of works...

so the same DVI on my gpu works when connecting to my old 1080p monitor. but when i use my 1440p qnix, the blue light turns on as if its connected, and sound plays through my external speakers only when the monitor is connected via DVI. but when i disconnect the DVI to this broken monitor, the speaker stop. so this tells me the monitor is sort of working? but theres no image displayed at all on the monitor. weird? i am assuming a capacitor is fried?

why would there be sound from speakers, but no display on the monitor screen? possible a capacitor that is related to the display is fried?


And im assuming i can find the fried capacitor and then buy a new one for cheap? like cant be more than a couple bucks right? i just need an identical capacitor with specs.

edit: wheres a good place to buy cheap capacitors? i probably only need one? id buy like 3 or 4 just in case i fk up lol.

This post was edited by noob_whacker on Feb 1 2018 12:28pm

IF you can locate the fried cap, then it won't be all that hard to replace it.

They are rated in voltage and farads. You will ofc need a cap with the same rating. The only other thing you might need is something to suck up the old solder, and something like hemostats to use as a heatsink, when you go to solder in the replacement cap.


/e To find the fried cap, look for scorch marks and/or a cap that's leaking. The leakage will look sort of like puss. If you're lucky, it'll be one of the larger caps. If it's one of the tinier ones, make sure you clamp some sort of heatsink on the lead before you solder it.

Also, the larger caps will probably just be printed with the voltage and farads. If it happens to be a tiny one, it will probably use the capacitor color code to give you the voltage and farads.

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/capacitor/cap_5.html

This post was edited by Ghot on Feb 1 2018 12:36pm

why hemostats? the forecep looking things? dont know what you mean by clamping a heatsink to the lead? and i though most solder stuff is lead free?
a cheap $16 kit on amazon comes with a desoldering pump, should be good enough right?

Yes that Amazon kit should be fine.

The "leads" on an electronic component, attach to somewhat heat sensitive parts IN the component. So we ned to apply some heat sucking metal object on the lead(s) between the component and the soldering iron, or the heat from the iron will damage the component.
Gimme a few to badly draw a pic.



/e




This post was edited by Ghot on Feb 1 2018 01:57pm

oh lol i thought u meant lead metal... derp

also been watching some videos for help, like this

Now that you have the idea, capacitors are fairly immune to heat, if you're ...fast, and you wait a bit before soldering the next lead. Time for the cap to cool down.

Secret trick of soldering:

Touch the iron to the lead, the circuit board and the solder at the same time. This will heat everything at once, and means you can spend less time with the iron on the component lead.

/e Get thin solder that has flux in it. Like 1mm thin.


/ee Btw, in the pic I drew, above, that's the old days, it is just for clarity. These days you'll probably be soldering on the back of the circuit board... but the same technique is used. (iron to circuit board and solder and lead at the same time).



/eee I didn't watch the vid but if you refresh the page and look at the vid before it starts... that giant light blue thing on the right is also a capacitor, as are the two smaller coin shaped components, blue also. They have leads on the front side of the circuit board as well. On them you can clamp on a heatsink.

This post was edited by Ghot on Feb 1 2018 02:09pm

yea prob easier to work with if they are soldered on the back?

also heres some pics i found from another place that should be the same motherboard ill be dealing with. shouldnt be too bad? maybe just re connecting everything will be a bitch

edit: also it looks like the desoldering pump that comes with the soldering iron should be fine. but i guess theres also desoldering wick i can buy? but isnt the wick just copper wire? i have some 16 guage copper wire i can strip and then use right lol?




This post was edited by noob_whacker on Feb 1 2018 02:15pm

Just remember, when looking for the fried one...caps come in a lot of different shapes and sizes. Not just the can type with the X on the top.

/e If you look real close you can see the caps labeled on the motherboard... C###, like: C722









This post was edited by Ghot on Feb 1 2018 02:27pm

heatsink is not useful for capacitors that are soldered underneath, right?

yea ill look for anything that looks bad. and prob take pics to post here just in case. ill prob have time tomorrow or saturday to check the caps before i even order the soldering kit.

Caps are less sensitive to heat than say a transistor, but even when working on the back (if that's the case) of the circuit board, I used to clip the hemostats to the lead on the wrong side of the iron...just to help a little bit.

When, at all in doubt, use a heatsink.

This post was edited by Ghot on Feb 1 2018 02:31pm