Hey there,
I just removed all strings from my Strat, and about to put new ones. I have never changed strings on guitar with this type of headstock, and im worried about last tuning posts.. so it would get enough turns around tuning post, also i dont wanna give too much lack, then i have too much string..

Im aware that lowest strings should have around 2-3 turns around tuning post, and i can get the distance going 2 posts over post i need string on, and either cut it or start turning it over tuning post.

So..how to i measure distance how much string i need on last 2-3 tuning posts? (highest strings). Also they should have more then 3 turns, cause they can be slippery

Thanks.

I appologize if my english is bit bad.. guitar terms is something diffrent from common english

Also made a typo in title: Fender Strat Guitar Strings Changing*

This post was edited by Pingers on Apr 16 2010 12:38am

Just tune your guitar and then clip your strings after a week, once they've stretched and set, I am really too lazy to clip my guitar strings until I have to play a show :\

Generally speaking, the two high strings are so small that you could wind both of them completely (no clipping) and there wouldn't be a huge problem with too much string wound around the tuning posts. You could just wind them fully this time, and then next time you will have an idea of how much string you can give up.

Thanks!

All strings changed, and tuned now i used extra random (cheap) b and e strings what i had lying around for a while now to test.. it came out nice, and changed them for better ones now

This post was edited by Pingers on Apr 16 2010 02:29am

Good call.

To be honest, I don't think that there is any difference with putting on a low or high string. I just do it the same everytime; pull the string tight, then give it 2 or 3 inches of slack when you wind

the only time changing a string from high to low matters is with a floating bridge. You always start with the low strings because the higher strings have so much tension, they could snap with out the support of the lower ones

you should really avoid taking off your strings all at the same time because it can fuck up the intonation if your guitar

just take them all off ..

re-string start from D or G string, and moving outwards one string at a time ...

then after stringing each string, tune it using a tuner, then go to roughly the 12th fret and pull up on the strings to stretch them out... re-tune, and stretch, re-tune and stretch, do it about 5 times.... then repeat for the rest of the strings.

as for the tuning knobs, wrap around twice, and thread through the hole above the wrapped around string, if that makes sense... then pull it, and start tightening.

then just clip them so you don't get someone smack bang in the eye.

This post was edited by darksh1nes1991 on Apr 17 2010 09:49am

Intonation is based on the adjustment of the string saddles at the bridge, it doesn't change without turning the screws. When you take all of the strings off, the tension rod will bend the neck back, but it will also return once you have the strings on, as long as you play them a bit to break them in and tune it, it isn't a problem - don't leave strings off for longer than necessary, but taking all of them off and cleaning the neck well is good guitar maintenance, and a clean neck plays much better than a dirty neck.

For winding the strings, I usually just wrap them around 3 times below the hole in the tuning peg, though I have read a guide saying to wrap it above once (I believe it was a Gibson owners manual). Wrapping the strings around less isn't bad, they are more likely to go out of tune, but nothing serious. I have pulled strings straight through the holes and turned the peg until they were in tune, not even a single wrap, and they worked out fine, maybe not staying in tune quite as well as those put on carefully, but it didn't hurt the playability. Wrapping strings around too many times isn't good, because it makes it harder to wind them cleanly, and I find that when they wrap on top of themselves, the tuning pegs resistance varies based on the odd wraps, which sometimes makes it a bit harder to tune - nothing major, but a good habit to be in.

Not sure if I am misunderstanding this.... but.....



If you mean slack/tension in the string, don't worry - how the string is wrapped beyond the nut does not affect the tension/playability of the string - the tone (note) produced by any given piece of metal (the string) is based entirely off of the amount of tension on it, so as long as it's in tune, any string manufactured to the same specs will have the same amount of slack.

Finally, don't use cheap strings! A good set of strings only costs $5-8 or so, and finding strings that you like is a step into the wonderful world of tone-seeking - try different notable brands, especially if you use a standard-sized set, and note the differences. Try SIT strings too, I found them after not quite being satisfied with the strings in all the local stores, so I mail-ordered some and I love them all around.