so my dealership wanted to charge me around $300 to install my own brake pads and resurface my rotors.
pepboys wanted to change me $340. they had 2.8 hours of labor to charge for.


instead i just bought some new rotors for $275 and i guess ill be doing this myself.
this guy makes it seem easy enough.
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/maintenance-service-repair/53834-brake-rotor-replacement.html
and pads
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/maintenance-service-repair/5889-changing-brake-pads-wrx.html


the links are mostly so i can use this thread as a bookmark for when i do this.

Curious how much mileage you had on your rotors? I just put some new rear pads in my truck a couple weeks ago, the rotors still looked great.

It's one of the easier jobs you can do on a car, assuming the bolts/sliders aren't rusted out/seized. I wouldn't worry that much about it. I've done brakes with nothing but a flat head screwdriver and a couple pairs of vice grips lol.

approx 25k miles on my 2011 (living close to work has benefits).
but more importantly, have had a bit of track time.

oem rotors should have been fine at that mileage. Just make sure there are no specialty tools required and it is pretty straight forward. Expect to take longer than most estimated though as something always goes wrong lol.

This..

One of the most headached jobs I've done was a brake job on my ranger.. The slide pin was seized.. After 24 hrs in pb, I tried taking it off with both a 1/4 inch impact gun and a wrench. I ended up shearing the end off. I ended up having to go to a Ford dealership to get a 18 dollar bolt, and had to drill out the rest of it.. was fucking terrible.

If your rotors are seized, go buy a couple of bolts that's the right size and thread to screw into the hub just in case

This post was edited by Krnboi12345 on Nov 30 2015 03:10pm

always do your own maint..
why would you pay that much for a brake job when it costs $75 for the parts? 2 hours if that of your own time youll know its done right..

another reason i ALWAYS do my own shit is because i re lube and clean the slider pins for the caliper brackets. doing that and making sure your boots are good as well will save you in the long run. and always use high temp grease on your sht. anyhtng with heat index preferable over 750 is just fine. unless you live in the mid west usa where temps can reach 120+ average id try for some higher shit.

if your ech is taking 2.5 hours to do 4 brakes than he aint worth paying the labor for. everying they use is pneumatic air... its not like they are using a hand help ratchet unscrewing every bolt lug nut etc. 30 min tops for front end.

unless your getting into dually setups. i would consider taking it to mechanic if your unsure.

This post was edited by premo1985 on Nov 30 2015 04:23pm

My shop charges 4.0 to machine front and rear rotors and replace pads, I ain't complaining lol.