Model: Toyota
Make: GT 2.2L
Year: 1994
engine/transmission option: Stick

The engine has some trouble idling as it sort of chugs. A few days ago it died as I was slowing down at a stop sign, I felt like I neglected to put oil in it as it has a slight leak as with any old car. I've changed the oil along with a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer and the spark plugs. The chugging is sort of gone after I let it run through the engine. Now the problem appears after the engine is warmed up, roughly a few mins after starting it. It would just die by itself, as it dies the rpm gauge kind of jumps around before dying completely. What is the cause of this? I would wait a little bit, it would run then shut off a little bit after.

I recent changed the radiator as the old one had a crack in it. My old Radiator temp sensor had one pin broken and I am currently looking for a new one O reily had one that didn't fit strange as it sounds. Any suggestions or questions to further find out what's wrong is greatly appreciated~

/edit It's also not throwing any codes as the check engine light isn't on.

This post was edited by NraugNab on Jun 2 2014 03:26pm

does it idle rough? Possible IACV or fuel delivery issue

How many miles?
You might just need it to get tuned up.

it is probably a fuel delivery issue like sly said, but could also be an air or vacuum leak. It could even be a sensor, but you have no cel as of now.

I would honestly just pay the 70 bucks to get it diagnosed if you can't pinpoint it yourself.

Yes, it chugs up n down when it idles. Though putting new oil and lucas oils stabilizer helped it.



It hit 200k not too long ago. The radiator cracked and I didn't have the money to fix it right away so it sat around for a while. It must've been low on oil as well being how old it is.

What is cel?

I would take it to the shop, but it won't stay on for more than a few minutes lol. Would like to avoid towing it.

The strange thing is that my fan radiator fan is always on, which normally only kicks on after it gets hot enough. I have the raditor temp sensor unplugged as of now.

My uncle thinks it's something with the dizzy or an electrical issue since I'm getting gas, etc.. and it idles for a few minutes before chugging then turning off.

Also perhaps I need to fill up my tank, I haven't filled it to full for quite some time now as I haven't been driving it much during the last few months. Could condensation in the fuel tank cause something like this as well?

Did you play with fan relays or sensors? ? if I unplug the temp sensor. Fans just go. Ans go

And bad gas could be an issue... I'd check the fuel filter next. It might fill up / prime when sitting, but can't flow enough gas to keep it running after a few min. And that won't throw a cel

E/ fuel filter is the first thing I would check actually now that I think more about it.

This post was edited by IB0T on Jun 3 2014 05:57am

I'd start by checking your charging system. Electronic fuel injection HATES low voltage.

From the description, it sounds almost like the car will have enough juice to start and run for a few seconds, but the alternator may not be sending sufficient voltage back to the battery at an idle. It also explains the flicking of the gauge needles.

The problem is, the symptoms you gave could potentially be a lot of different things. Like what's been mentioned.

Vacuum leaks cause fluctuating idle. If the idle jumps between a set rev range and is predictable/cyclical (ex. Jumping from 1000-1500 every couple secs) it is most likely vacuum related.

Another thing to check out is your coolant temperature sensor, not the gauge sensor, the one that communicates to your ecu.

You say you have the 'radiator temp sensor' unhooked? Is this the gauge sensor? or the fans? Or the ecu sensor? If it's the later, that's definitely one of your problems. If the ECU doesn't know how hot the engine is, it can't adjust accordingly.

Regardless. Plug that back in. Youre going to want to monitor temperatures. Especially if your electric fan turns on, as most operate by a sensor/relay that kicks on once the motor hits a certain temp (usually somewhere around 170).


It also could be a fuel issue, like low fuel pressure, or blocked lines, however I feel this is less likely, given your symptoms.

EDIT: but since you mentioned low fuel, sediment in the tank could cause this problem, especially if the fuel pump doesn't have a pre filter. Pull the drain plug to the tank and drain it for a couple seconds into a clean glass container, you should immediately see junk floating around if that's the issue.


But step one: make sure your charging system and battery are healthy. THEN start to look into sensors and other stuff.

Check what's easy first.

This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on Jun 3 2014 06:27am

Well after I changed oil, the rpm flickering stopped. It revs pretty low, around 800 rpm and flickers around there previously

This is the temperature "sender" I meant, I guess it's not a sensor: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Temperature+Sender+-+Universal/N2346/C0331.oap?model=Celica&vi=1274307&year=1994&make=Toyota

I'll see if I can get a multi-meter to test the voltage later when I get the chance. The Alternator was squeaking a little so I sprayed some WD-40 and it seems to have quieted down.



Yeah, the fans just go and go, stays on and doesn't turn off with the temp sender plugged from the connector that leads to the relay box up top.

update:

I've replaced the radiator sensor and now the fans are working properly I assume, they don't come on automatically during the beginning anymore. The problem of it shutting itself off after a few minutes/while it's warmed up is still occurring. I'm assuming I should check the gas if it's bad gas next?

This post was edited by NraugNab on Jun 6 2014 02:36pm

update:

-Distributor cap replaced, old one had rust in one of the holes.

-New spark plug wire coils, old ones had slight rust at the tip going to distributor cap.

-New PCV Valve as well as the rubber hose.

-Sprayed some carburetor cleaner into the IAC, idles a tad better now.

It cranks over so I'm guessing the ignitor works, but I don't know how I would test it if it's actually faulty. It's about $230 for a new one and I would like to avoid it if it's not the problem.

Had the Ignition coil replaced by a shop 2 years ago, chances of it being the culprit?

Any suggestions on what to look for next is appreciated.

Have you Checked fuel pressure at all? Doesn't take much pressure at all to start a vehicle but it needs enough to keep it running.