instead of going radical or having big dreams for the old lt1. im going to be reasonable lol. i think im just gonna throw a 150 shot on it with an exhaust and call it a day for this year. thoughts or suggestions?? i know absolutly nothing about running it. which size bottle should i look for? how many lbs do you usually use per pass and such? i know after every pass while getting it right you have to check your plugs to make sure everything is going well. what should i be checking for on the plugs??

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/6104/1/35/1368/20421-10-proton-plus-nitrous-system-w-10lb-bottle.html proton kit
vs
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/6104/1/35/1169/80010-10-8-cylinder-lt1-ls1-pro-piranha-nozzle-gas-with-10lb-bottle.html the piranha kit

This post was edited by TeaRs- on Jan 28 2014 02:35pm

NOS...













































NOS!!!!!!!!

seriously though lol. and its nitrous not NOS lol. i hate that shit

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/efi-wet-nitrous-systems/gm-systems/nitrous-outlet-52mm-93-97-lt1-plate-system.html

or maybe a plate kit, it seems the easiest. also anyone know about the timing that would nee to be pulled?

Go to Nitrous Outlet. Dave makes some of the best F-body specific stuff you will find. There are many, many options. Harris Speed Works has good stuff too. One of my friends has a 95 Z28 that ran 12.10@112 on a 100 wet shot with full exhaust and a 3000 stall on 3.42 gears, and BFG drag radials on 17" wheels. He did that on the stock fuel pump. It was also running on 7 cylinders on that pass.

You will want a 10lb bottle most likely. Both places I mentioned sell brackets to mount it in the spare tire compartment. You will want an electric bottle heater. If you go with dave's F-body specific plate kit it should have everything else.

Bottle, bracket, bottle heater, nitrous line, fuel line (if wet kit), nitrous solenoid, fuel solenoid (if wet kit), appropriate filters for each, jets, the plate itself, and a FPSS+window switch to do it right. The window switch only lets it spray in a certain RPM range. The Fuel Pressure Safety Switch closes the solenoids if the fuel pressure stops below a set point.

souns good, i just started browsing around ls1tech for the first time in a year or so. ill get in touch with dave. ill probably run a wet shot on it just to make sure its a little safer then a dry shot? and for a 150 shot i shouldnt need colder plugs should i? think i should run a stall and a window switch or just a wide open throttle one? ill probably get the trans rebuilt just to be safe. radials, rebuilt trans, 150 shot and a full exhaust is what im thinking

1 step colder plug like a TR6 would be wise as well as a window switch. If you spray below say 2800rpm you could end up with a nitrous backfire.

cant have that lol. just hoping to crack into the low 12s for some bracket fun this summer with the old man, go to some bigger races and get back into it

...if I could borrow your thread for a moment...

Since I know f?!k-all about running nitrous, for my own knowledge: what's the difference between running a wet shot and a dry shot?

From this answer at Yahoo Answers, looks like a wet shot would be the more reliable delivery?

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090810194434AACX2hd

A 150 shot would put you in the 11's even with a stock stall.





Wet is injecting fuel and nitrous in the correct quantities. Dry is injecting nitrous Pre MAF and letting the computer compensate for the nitrous. A dry shot is simpler to plumb and install. In many ways it is actually safer. If the nitrous solenoid doesn't activate, nothing happens. On a wet system if the nitrous solenoid doesn't activate it goes very rich and you can end up with a nasty backfire in the intake manifold. If the fuel solenoid doesn't activate it goes extremely lean and usually blows the engine. Dry shots are great for anything under 200-250hp worth. Anything over that and it becomes very hard to tune for. That's why you see most race cars running multiple stages or a really big single stage using a wet system. For a street car a dry kit works great if you get the car tuned for it.