Quote (AkuuZ @ Jan 15 2011 05:22am)

I know, thanks.

You drive a lawnmower everyday.....

Quote (Avoid @ 15 Jan 2011 03:23)

nuggy i dont mow lawns. I live in downtown portland in an apartment, nn that grass stuff.

Quote (Avoid @ Jan 23 2011 01:36pm)

Engine is done, 24 hours later she's knockin.

Was my first engine rebuild and I'm sure I know what happened.

I think I got the rod caps mixed up on the wrong rods. Was a good first attempt imo.

Quote (FMX_89 @ Jan 3 2011 12:08pm)

Oh this is going to be good comedy.  What machine work has been done to the block?  Has it been decked?  Honed w/ stress plate?  Align honed the mains?  Rod and main caps sized for roundness and correct clearance?  Pistons/rods weighed and matched?  Rotating assembly balanced?

Do you own a Dial indicator?  Are you trained to use a Vernier caliper (properly)?  Do you know what main and rod bearing tolerances you are going to use?

I understand you want a learning experience and a fun project but I'd suggest letting a professional do the machine work and assemble the short block.  You can do it yourself but don't cry when you have 8oz of bearing shavings in the oil pan before the rings even seat well.

Quote (FMX_89 @ Jan 3 2011 12:41pm)

Alright.  It just seems like 4cyl guys (regardless of brand) are the only ones that tackle bottom end building on their own.  Yes you have to learn somewhere, no, it shouldn't be from trial and error.  There is a LOT of knowledge, experience, and skill required to properly build a performance engine.  I can't even begin to explain it all.  Just know that most of the ones that walk into it blindly walk out with much lighter pockets.  It's the one thing that the best in the business still have a specialist do.  .0001" can be the difference in running well and seizing on startup.  If you go through with it monitor your oil changes very closely and cut the filter to see what is going on.

Quote (FMX_89 @ Jan 23 2011 02:07pm)

There is a reason a qualified machinist should be doing this.  What do you think mixing up the caps did?  It sounds like it spun a bearing for sure.  I hate to say I told you so but I have to.  This is not something that you learn by trial and error.  You have to be trained.  If you do get one to last it will be luck.

Quote (Avoid @ Jan 23 2011 02:09pm)

Yea its a spun bearing if I had to guess.

it was an extra engine, so I really dont care. I thought I had the caps on the right rods for sure, oh well.

Gonna take it apart later today to see what the damage is.

Quote (FMX_89 @ Jan 23 2011 02:13pm)

If it did spin the bearing the crank needs to go to a machine shop to be turned or be replaced.  The rod of the offending bearing also needs to be replaced.

Quote (Avoid @ Jan 23 2011 02:15pm)

We'll see once it gets opened up. Its barely even knocking, maybe I'm just being paranoid.

Quote (FMX_89 @ Jan 23 2011 02:25pm)

Is the knock based on engine RPM when you rev it or is it half engine RPM?  That will tell you if it is top end or bottom end.  If it is knocking at all you aren't being paranoid.  Like I said before, if you open it up and a bearing is Fubar you can't re-use the crank and rod as is.  It won't last.  The only way to fix the crank is to take it to a competent machine shop and have it polished.  Then you will have to re-measure the journal and see if you need an oversized bearing.  How are you measuring clearances?  Dial/caliper or plastigage?

Quote (Avoid @ Jan 23 2011 02:28pm)

Very small ticking at idle, knocks mildly at like 1500-2000, but when you hit 2500-3000+ it sounds fine.