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Sep 18 2014 08:27am
Quote (OldAndyAndTheSea @ Sep 15 2014 09:17pm)
I'm also struggling to find a blue that closely matches the GM blue of my engine. So I am reviewing different blues to see if anything would work.

http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/IMG_20140915_204106857_zpsnxhvsrfg.jpg



And finally...A sneak peak at what will become the master plug used for making replacement (carbon fiber) center consoles. It's a side project I started a couple days ago at work. So carbon consoles baby!

http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/IMG_20140915_130017352_zpsduvcd6ri.jpg

It'll look something like this when finished. (hood plug for a jet ski cowl.)

http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/IMG_20140915_114028234_zpsyooq1wkt.jpg


Perpetually waiting on stuff in the mail.

More to come.



imo the first one on the left...
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Sep 18 2014 12:01pm
Quote (bigfoxx000 @ Sep 17 2014 01:46am)
fifth one from the left seems like the best fit.  on another note I LOVE ME SOME SEAMANANDY


<3 !!!!!

Quote (BiG_BeN @ Sep 18 2014 10:27am)
imo the first one on the left...



Thanks, I think I may have it all figured out. I've sourced out, what I believe to be a similar blue paint, and I believe matching powder. I just need an oven large enough to fit the valve cover in there....Or get creative with some bricks.






The vacuum pump at work is currently down for maintenance until Tuesday, so I have had some time to work. Well...not on the center console mold, but anyway...


I cleaned up the front wheel wells (not that you can tell from the pictures) and actually assembled the front.



While doing so, I removed, and powder coated, the tie rod ends. Now they are ready for the alignment, when that comes.




Before:



Cleaned:



This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on Sep 18 2014 12:02pm
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Sep 18 2014 12:02pm
After: (TERRIBLE PICTURE)




Both sides assembled! I love how easy the adjustment on everything is. You could play around for days dialing in the suspension tune. Yay!







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Sep 18 2014 12:03pm

Oh yeah. First new seat arrived. :D




Just sitting there.

Of course...I still have to fabricate some stuff to make it bolt in place, but what else is new? :)



No more squish between the seat and the door!



It also lowers me much more than the old *** seats. I have, I believe, at least 6 inches of clearance between my head and the roof, which is good. (I'm 6' 1")




And now the 280 gets the old seats! Cause big Pimpin'.

Going back out there now. Lets see what I can make.
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Oct 3 2014 02:00pm
Been busy, makin' dat money.

Here's a quick update bringing us up to date.

Funny how things come full circle...

I've decided that until I source out, or make, an oven large enough to powdercoat my valve cover, I will opt for the ceramic engine paint one more time.

That said, I refinished my intake manifold.....Again. Stupid manifold.









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Oct 3 2014 02:00pm
While I was at it, I took the throttle linkage apart, and did a little coating.




Then I installed my new 440cc injectors and my -6an O-ring fuel rail, replacing the stock barbed injectors and subsequent rail, which went to the 280zx.





Version 2.0






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Oct 3 2014 02:08pm
ohhhhhh


shiney
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Oct 3 2014 02:23pm
Looking sharp
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Oct 11 2014 06:15pm
Danke fellas.

Today, I installed my new seats. The following is taken from my build thread, and is kind of written as a how to, but I figure it'd still be appropriate for this thread as well.





This is what I did to make the Sparco R100 seats fit the 240z chassis.

What you'll need:

- 240z (or your particular car's) OEM seat sliders

- Drill + bits

- 8x 8mm x 1.25 bolts (roughly 3/4" in length)

- A 6 pack of your favorite beer. (you'll thank me for this)




Okay, to start....

First I removed the stock carriage bolts that mounted the sliders to the Datsun seats. A good smack with a hammer will pop them right out.



Here's another shot. With the bolts removed.



In order to mount the slider with the handle, I lightly (heh) tapped the following rail with a hammer, so it can be fully seated. The spring mechanism will make contact with this metal rail/support, if you do not.

I'm pointing at it here. The 1/8" round stock.



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Oct 11 2014 06:15pm
Once that is tapped down slightly, the OEM rail will now seat fully against the mounting points.

Next, I used the stock carriage bolt hole at the rear of the slider as my first mounting point.



Once that bolt was mock tight, I marked and drilled out the new hole to mount the front of the slider. Once again, I'm pointing at the area to drill out.



And drilled.



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