Were the camber plates up front really necessary? Wouldn't bolts have given you enough - camber for the track?

The front is pretty tight when you stick a 245 tire in there, especially when you start turning the wheel. Camber plates will assist in getting the proper ride height, and clearing the various obstacles. Bolts won't give as much adjust ability, however.

Good point though.

I don't know what your rear strut mount looks like but you can probably bend a stuffing box out of stainless sheet metal. Drill/tap the body, cut a gasket for it, cut a hole in the bottom for the strut to slide through, insert a grommet there and dab a little rtv on the strut body. It would be removable for adjustment and sealed for weather. Again, i don't know what the mount area looks like but it's just a thought. You might tackle that next winter when you are tired of it being running/driving.

Another great idea. Yeah, I'm still weighing options at this point. I mean, I've definitely got the time.

And thanks for making me laugh (bolded). I needed that.




Sometimes you must go back, before you can move forward.

This opens a lot of doors for brake work, and my EDIS install.

Sure feels awful pulling the motor back out though....However, that'll change the second I start bolting stuff back together.

Talk about déjà vu

I'm not familiar with the details of your engine but we have had bad luck with K&N oil filters on some of our LSX builds. They filter really well. A bit too well... They actually restrict oil flow in our case if the oil pump is shimmed, ported, or upgraded in any way. Our pumps flow about 7GPM once they are ported/shimmed. It's a Gerotor style pump. Your filter looks big in comparison to your engine so it may not be an issue with your platform. I run WIX, Napa Gold, or Purolator PureOne depending on which parts store I walk into.

Yeah, I've heard of those issues, but you pretty much nailed it. The size of this filter makes the difference. That said, my next filters will definitely be WIX from now on. I prefer them, however my particular vendor of that day was not a WIX dealer. So I settled.

Really good point though, how awesome would it be if I FINALLY got the boosted version of this motor up and running, and I blew it up due to oil starvation!?...Hahahaha.





So I've been putting the "labor" in Labor Day Weekend.

Tonight was spent installing the EDIS trigger wheel.

Man, it was easier than I anticipated. Either that, or I did it WAY wrong. Haha.

So here's what I did, along with some pictures to assist the explanation.

Turned the motor to TDC compression stroke on the #1 cylinder. Pulled valve cover to confirm the damper mark is accurate (on "0").

Here's the magnetic sensor mount:



It goes here.



I then mock fit the sensor to its mount and bolted it in place.

I also threw a couple of the flywheel bolts in place to be able to hold the engine in place, while I removed the crank bolt.

I then oriented the silver trigger wheel mount and bolted in in place.

Here's a picture of that mount. (ignore the fact that the crank bolt is magically back in place)



At TDC the magnetic sensor wants to point at the 6th tooth (white tooth) from the double space/gap on the trigger wheel.

So after a couple minutes of aligning the mount, I torqued the crank bolt in place.

Then I mocked the trigger wheel in place, and that 6th tooth is aligned with the magnetic sensor. So all would appear to be correct.

And finally, I was playing around with the control module, and the coil pack, beginning to plan how I want things to be organized in the engine compartment.






I'm feeling pretty good, thanks to some great progress, and a few Dos Equis (stay thirsty my friends).

I am looking forward to a good night's rest.

I'm back to being excited!

This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on Aug 31 2014 09:56pm

God, reading this thread makes me feel so anxious about when I finally get home from working up north and able to work on putting my truck back together