most people don't do it right the first time though, titanium syncros etc etc. Most do a stock rebuild and say it was a fluke, then do it again then finally realize the t56 can't hold even stock ls1 power unless built right.
If you do a rebuild put out the extra money and do it right the first time.

1 was quicker then the others he must of had the bigger model i didnt pay attention tough

Wat you say makes sense, i have been driving the car for 2 months but i have been driving standard for 7 years daily i dont see inexperienced/bad as the issue. Still havent sprayed the car and i dont know wa tim gonna do yet for the tranny.
either im doing a 1600$ upgrade like you said or sending it to get tr6060 internals and never worry again

This post was edited by BlueAndWhite on Aug 21 2014 02:56pm

do it right the first time and build it for your expected end power result, even if it costs more this first time.

The only upgrade to synchros is carbon fiber blocker rings which are definitely more durable. When shifted correctly the synchro isn't the weak link. None of the hard parts are replaced in a rebuild. The gears, mainshaft, etc are all stock unless you go to a viper spec trans with a 31 spline input shaft.

The typical "Stage 2" rebuild is carbon fiber blocker rings, bronze fork pads, steel 3/4 shift fork (the real weak link), new shift rails and sliders, check clearances, put it back together. Until you go to a better shaft the rebuilds make them more durable but not really any stronger. Tick warranties their stage 2 to 650tq I believe.






Don't waste your money on the 6060 or Magnum conversion. If you fried the 2/3 synchro assembly on the T56 the 6060 will do it even easier. Look at some pictures of the synchro teeth (cones) on both transmissions. The 6060 has waaaay more teeth, but they are much smaller. That makes engagement better and smoother but it is possible to miss 1 shift really bad and completely cook the synchro. The T56 style is actually tougher.

If you want to drop some coin on the trans and intend to make pretty big power one day do the viper spec conversion.

Again, you have a synchro grinding. That doesn't mean the trans broke. It is a wear item, and you and the previous owner wore it out. The hard parts in the trans are still working fine and will hold your power level. Since you have a Z06 you already have an MN12 with the lower gear ratios and triple cone synchros. It's a good trans. If you rebuild it and get the basic lvl 2 stuff done, use good fluid, and take care of it, the thing will last.

my friend that works at chevy brough me the complete GM work procedure to take the trans out of a c5, i guess it doesn't get much better then this step by step 33 pages with images for a first time.

The hell? I never knew it was in the back of the car practically.....learn something new every day.

yea bolted to the dif not the engine

Transaxle


T56/getrag diff

Dat 50/50 weight bias yo