yet refuse to meet you irl.

Shit I just lost a really nicely laid out post thanks to a thunderstorm.

FML, I should have used my phone. Stand by 1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842101393

quit being mother natures chump.

so no double posts

LS2 Formula ran a 422 solid roller LSX with parts in the bottom end similar to the first one I outlined earlier. He also used TFS 235's with a 6 bolt setup. He went 7.90's on twin TC78's which are a small frame turbonetics turbo. He switched to PT7675's and went 7.70's@180+. That is a 3500lb street car. It still had full power options and a subwoofer... Granted you are a 6 speed with IRS and his car is a solid axle with drag suspension and a glide but the weight will be similar... Look at the MPH. He choked the TC78's 76mm turbine wheel with his 422 and trick flows.

Anything under 72mm IMO belongs on an import or a modular Ford. LSX's have on average 100ci more than a mod motor. They require a bigger turbine to keep the same backpressure ratios.

You will have no problem spooling 70mm+ turbos with a 365" engine.







The dominator can control the 4l60 and 4l80. The HP cannot. The Dominator is the newest and most user friendly top tier EFI controller available. It is on a completely different level than the Fast and megasquirt. It competes with the BS3.


With a 4l60E from an LS1 Fbody, a 275/40/17, and 3.23's using a 6800rpm rev limit and a 6600rpm shift point you will have:


1-2 shift at 51mph
2-3 shift at 96mph (just before the 1/8th mile)

You will probably trap between 140 and 145 depending on how well it hooks (more on that in a second)

That means you will be turning 6000-6200rpm going through the traps. That is pretty good for a turbo car with a plastic intake and nothing fancy for heads. That is around where it will make max power.


I would do something about that tire though. You will need the suspension and converter to REALLY work to have any traction on a 275/40/17. That is the factory size tire. If you move down to a 275/60/15 you will have no problems hooking it once you understand the suspension. Guys are going in the high 7's on the MT 275 pro's. A 28" tire hooks a LOT easier and the sidewall is what it's all about. That will also increase decrease your final drive ratio. 56/105/5500RPM at your current power level shifting at 6600.

Once you are making the power to trap in the 150's it will come back to you. 155mph is 6000rpm through the traps. You might try 3.42's for now wit ha 28" tire. It will have more pep in city traffic and hook better than a 26" tire with a 3.23. The final drive ratio is almost exactly the same as a 26" tire (275/40) and a 3.23. Even at 160mph trap you won't be out of gear. That is 6550 RPM.



Im borrowing a MacBook with the mandatory screwed battery so it's plugged in. I have a battery backup for a homebuilt PC....At home. I'm at the inlaws. FML

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Oct 8 2013 09:30pm

Not a fan of pump gas + meth either but this is a sick setup nun the less

im curious what makes u so curious.

There are many ways to skin a cat. But...

This is why I don't like 93+ meth. As it was explained to me by someone with multiple LSX shootout trophies meth should be a safety net. It should not be accounted for in the tune up. It should be there to help prevent detonation but your setup should not detonate if it fails to spray. You should not rely on it for making more power than your fuel can support. Say you have a 9.2:1 CR engine and are trying to hit 1000whp with it. At 750whp it detonates on 93. If you spray a bunch of meth, lowering IAT and increasing octane you can add boost and timing to make 1000whp.

Then the meth doesn't spray, and your shit goes boom. When you start tuning FOR the meth you are adding more variables. People have gotten away from this way of thinking in the last couple of years but it is definitely the safe way to do it.

E-85 on the other hand IS your fuel. If it doesn't spray the engine doesn't run. It has higher octane and just as good of cooling properties as 93+meth. You can run up to 20° of timing with it. The sweet spot for SCR is 10.2-10.5:1. This makes more power off boost, is more responsive, and will help build boost sooner at the line. The extra volume of fuel also helps with spool. Yes it isn't as easy to find as 93. You also don't have to trust washer fluid, order drums of VP M1, or make trips to the building supply store. You don't need to sacrifice your washer fluid tank or have an auxiliary tank and pump. You don't have to worry about it coming on or running out in the middle of a run. It's $3.50/gal race gas that you can get at the pump.

The only downside is you need bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump and they have to be E-85 compatible. The Magnafuel 4303 will make right around 1000whp on E85 and is a single in tank or external electric.




I'm running a belt drive

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Oct 8 2013 10:28pm

I figured the 10.5 wide would be plenty to hook for 650 up and that's goof news about the efi. That's means I can't switch my a 4l80e a lot easier. And I do see your point about switching down the tire.size. it makes sense. Looks like I'm going with some drag lites instead of the torque thrust. It will defiantly look more like a drag car with those on . And I may save some weight also which is a good thing . I was just hoping to be able to run 17s on her.

You can run 17's. Try to get a set of 15" rears for the track. I spun the shit out of 275/40/17 BFG drag radials with 450whp from time time. If you go with street lites you can get 17's and 2 15's for the rear and they will still match.