http://championmotors.ca/ is the shop. $350 plus mine is what we agreed on.

That's a pretty good price on it.

thats not bad....


i wonder if they just went over to victory circle and used their jig

i would assume they just back halfed it, cut it all out, theres not a whole lot to the rear ends of these cars

probably spent more time fitting the body

Anyone ever heard of/dealt with Solid Tech Performance? I think they've got the best overall deal on a monster level 2 clutch for me, but I can't get a hold of them.

Never heard of them. Did you call Colorado speed? They seem to give some of the best prices out there if you call them. They can't advertise below MSRP. EDIT: Forgot cuz Canada




I ordered a dial indicator and magnetic stand as well as a deck bridge stand so I can start on the 383.

There are a lot of unknowns with this engine since the guy wasn't given a build sheet. Here is a list of things I need to do before I order parts:

Measure piston to deck height
Measure piston valve relief volume
CC Cylinder head combustion chambers
Measure free valve drop

PTV clearance shouldn't be an issue since it has pretty big valve reliefs. I want to get the static compression up as high as I can since I'm guessing the reliefs are 6cc. That's about twice as big as I'd like. All of those measurements work together to help me determine optimal head gasket thickness to reach my desired quench distance and static compression ratio, or get as close to it as I can.

I'd like to see 11.5:1 SCR and .035" quench. I'll probably have to order a custom thickness gasket from Cometic to do that. If the piston deck height happens to be 0 I can probably use an off the shelf .040" Cometic.

After I figure out what gaskets I need and get them in I can mock it up and start measuring for pushrod length. Between now and then I am going to consult Tony Mamo (formerly of AFR) about lifters for this build. I am going to use a premium lifter. I've seen too many failures of stock LS7 lifters and cheaper aftermarket lifters. The cam in this engine is pretty damn mild for a 383 but I don't plan on losing the engine or pulling the heads over a failed lifter. That leaves me with Morel and Johnson lifters. What I hope to make a decision on after talking to Tony is whether to go link bar or keep my stock lifter trays, and whether to go with a short travel lifter or not.

Short travel lifters are great for high RPM stability but they aren't the greatest for daily driving. You also have to be accurate with your pushrod length measurement to +/- .005. That isn't as easy as it sounds when you are talking about measuring a hydraulic lifter. Morel 5206's are link bar, regular travel and they run about $550. The Johnson 2116LSR are a slow leak down standard travel link bar and they run about $750. It's a lot to pay for a set of lifters when I could buy a set of LS7's for $118 but the peace of mind is worth it.

With either lifter I'm going to have to measure all 16 pushrods and order a set of custom length Manton's if I want a stable, quiet valvetrain. The preload window on these is about 1/4 of LS7 lifters (.050" vs .200") so they aren't very forgiving. That's why I can't measure for PR length until I get the right head gasket in. This is going to be an optimized build, not some off the shelf shit thrown together. I'll make a thread when I start measuring shit.


EDIT: First line

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Mar 3 2015 05:01pm

I can't order from STP, apparently they don't stock them anymore. I think I'm going to have to order it then pick it up in the states. I found this website

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/monster-clutch-level-2-clutch-lsx-engine-12-package-fbody-525hp-/?osCsid=d045e829a536569872a7bad6a49530f9

Which I think is about as cheap as I'll get.

This post was edited by ride686 on Mar 3 2015 09:14pm

i hope you went with a starrett

Agreed. There's NO other option in my mind.

Looking forward to the build. A 383 stroker is one of my favorite builds.

Lol no, I did not buy a $250 dial indicator for this. I'm no machinist. This is about as in depth as I will get with measuring anything. I do have a Mitutoyo digital caliper that was left to me by my grandfather. Accuracy to +/- .001" is plenty for this stuff. I bought a Proform 3 hole magnetic deck bridge and a comp cams dial indicator. I probably could have gotten by with a harbor freight piece lol.





I order from WS6store all of the time. They have been around a long time. They are a drop shipping company with no real inventory as far as I know.

You will like the stage 2. You will like it even more with a Tick adjustable master cylinder. The master increases pedal effort by around 40% but it makes the driving experience a joy. It's not as big of a requirement on a vette though.

i use them alot at work so i just take one from the truck or the shop when i need one.