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Jan 25 2015 08:58pm
Quote (Epicexecution @ Jan 25 2015 09:33pm)
meanwhile in toronto
http://i.imgur.com/CBBiQs7.jpg



really we have only had like to snow falls this year
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Jan 25 2015 10:05pm
I remember a bit of freezing rain Saturday afternoon, not that much though.
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Jan 25 2015 10:22pm
Quote (SlyGoSu @ Jan 25 2015 11:05pm)
I remember a bit of freezing rain Saturday afternoon, not that much though.


compared to last year ahaha its been a breeze, its February in a few days and it has really one snowed twice lol wtf?
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Jan 26 2015 08:22am
Leakdown results are in. I took the time to test every cyl at BDC and TDC to check for concentricity. Most of the wear in a V engine happens 40° before and after TDC as that is where compression is highest. Going in to this I had no idea if my shortblock was stock or rebuilt. I now suspect it is stock. I found 4-6% leakage at BDC cold across all cyl. I found 16-18% at TDC on all cyl. It's good that everything is within a tight range. That points to the short being healthy, but the leakage at TDC shows a lot of wear. It's probably down 10-15hp over a fresh engine and it does consume a bit more oil than normal. I contacted a few engine builders this morning to discuss plans for a short block for it. That said, I found nothing that would keep me from running it as is. I showed no intake or exhaust valve leakage which is great. With the small size of the cam my gut tells me the springs are fine. It has nice looking dual springs in it. I also found out I correctly guessed the shop that the original owner bought all of his parts from. When I pulled the pushrods they are from Texas Speed. The whole thing screams 2006 or 2007 TSP build with the ported 5.3L truck heads, small cam, shimmed oil pump, etc. It probably has their smallest shelf cam in it which is a 220/220 duration.

I'll let you guys know what I decide to do with the new short. I have no plans to spray or boost this thing. I want to build a short that seals really well, turns the RPM safely, and lasts for DD mileage. I'll probably end up with a hyper piston or 4032 alloy forged piston, a larger ring pack than you typically see, a forged rod, and slightly different bearing choices. Your average built LSX is really not mileage friendly anymore. Everyone builds 2618 forged piston motors with thing steel top rings and nitrous gaps (just in case), clevite H bearings with big clearances... etc. I have one of those, and that's not what I'm after for this one. It will be a 347 or 383 depending on what the builder feels he can do with bearings and ring wear with the longer stroke and shorter piston.
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Jan 26 2015 10:39am
Weather forecast changed, 10-15 cm of snow today and tomorrow. Had to get a drive into work, throwing winter tires on tonight. Should be interesting haha

Quote (FMX_89 @ Jan 26 2015 10:22am)
Leakdown results are in. I took the time to test every cyl at BDC and TDC to check for concentricity. Most of the wear in a V engine happens 40° before and after TDC as that is where compression is highest. Going in to this I had no idea if my shortblock was stock or rebuilt. I now suspect it is stock. I found 4-6% leakage at BDC cold across all cyl. I found 16-18% at TDC on all cyl. It's good that everything is within a tight range. That points to the short being healthy, but the leakage at TDC shows a lot of wear. It's probably down 10-15hp over a fresh engine and it does consume a bit more oil than normal. I contacted a few engine builders this morning to discuss plans for a short block for it. That said, I found nothing that would keep me from running it as is. I showed no intake or exhaust valve leakage which is great. With the small size of the cam my gut tells me the springs are fine. It has nice looking dual springs in it. I also found out I correctly guessed the shop that the original owner bought all of his parts from. When I pulled the pushrods they are from Texas Speed. The whole thing screams 2006 or 2007 TSP build with the ported 5.3L truck heads, small cam, shimmed oil pump, etc. It probably has their smallest shelf cam in it which is a 220/220 duration.

I'll let you guys know what I decide to do with the new short. I have no plans to spray or boost this thing. I want to build a short that seals really well, turns the RPM safely, and lasts for DD mileage. I'll probably end up with a hyper piston or 4032 alloy forged piston, a larger ring pack than you typically see, a forged rod, and slightly different bearing choices. Your average built LSX is really not mileage friendly anymore. Everyone builds 2618 forged piston motors with thing steel top rings and nitrous gaps (just in case), clevite H bearings with big clearances... etc. I have one of those, and that's not what I'm after for this one. It will be a 347 or 383 depending on what the builder feels he can do with bearings and ring wear with the longer stroke and shorter piston.


http://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls1-ls2-naturally-aspirated-camshafts.html

Stage 2 or 3 for my car? lol
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Jan 26 2015 11:10am
Quote (ride686 @ Jan 26 2015 11:39am)
Weather forecast changed, 10-15 cm of snow today and tomorrow. Had to get a drive into work, throwing winter tires on tonight. Should be interesting haha



http://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls1-ls2-naturally-aspirated-camshafts.html

Stage 2 or 3 for my car? lol


3 since you like it rough.


I've seen nothing but great things from tooley. I've spoken to him twice and he is very knowledgeable and willing to share. If i were buying a shelf cam it would be his 3 or 4. Geoff @ EPS will be speccing mine on his endurance lobes.
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Jan 26 2015 11:46am
Quote (FMX_89 @ Jan 26 2015 01:10pm)
3 since you like it rough.


I've seen nothing but great things from tooley. I've spoken to him twice and he is very knowledgeable and willing to share. If i were buying a shelf cam it would be his 3 or 4. Geoff @ EPS will be speccing mine on his endurance lobes.


Alright, how streetable is a stage 4? I don't think I want to go past a stage 3 but my buddy doesn't drive his as much as I do and hes looking at that route. Even at a stage 3, what kind of fuel economy hit would I take?
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Jan 26 2015 12:11pm
Quote (ride686 @ Jan 26 2015 12:46pm)
Alright, how streetable is a stage 4? I don't think I want to go past a stage 3 but my buddy doesn't drive his as much as I do and hes looking at that route. Even at a stage 3, what kind of fuel economy hit would I take?


The 3 will make power to 6800rpm with a good intake. With a good tune the 3 should drive pretty damn good. You MUST go to a competent tuner that is going to spend the time necessary to get it tuned well on the street or you will hate it. I cannot stress that enough. The 4 is going to buck and surge in parking lots more than the 3 but again a competent tuner will make it liveable. Gears will make them both better. They would almost be necessary for the 4. The 4 won't make any more peak power than the 3 without a good intake. A fast 102/102 would work on a 346.

As far as fuel mileage... i'd expect your vette to get 25 on the hwy still and probably 15 in the city. Gears will make it drive better and help the city economy but hurt the hwy a bit. 3.90's are the perfect compromise ratio imo.

Do yourself a favor and send your heads to AI for their 226cc cnc program and tooley's dual spring kit. You will pick up enormous power everywhere with no drivability sacrifice and it's really cheap since you already have the heads.
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Jan 26 2015 12:40pm
Quote (FMX_89 @ Jan 26 2015 02:11pm)
The 3 will make power to 6800rpm with a good intake. With a good tune the 3 should drive pretty damn good. You MUST go to a competent tuner that is going to spend the time necessary to get it tuned well on the street or you will hate it. I cannot stress that enough. The 4 is going to buck and surge in parking lots more than the 3 but again a competent tuner will make it liveable. Gears will make them both better. They would almost be necessary for the 4. The 4 won't make any more peak power than the 3 without a good intake. A fast 102/102 would work on a 346.

As far as fuel mileage... i'd expect your vette to get 25 on the hwy still and probably 15 in the city. Gears will make it drive better and help the city economy but hurt the hwy a bit. 3.90's are the perfect compromise ratio imo.

Do yourself a favor and send your heads to AI for their 226cc cnc program and tooley's dual spring kit. You will pick up enormous power everywhere with no drivability sacrifice and it's really cheap since you already have the heads.


Sending heads away from Canada complicates the process and makes it much more expensive to say the least lol. Staying stock intake and heads would a stage 2 make more sense for a daily driven car?
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Jan 26 2015 12:41pm
lol i was actually lookin at his stage 4 today
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