Why wouldn't it? That is 475whp dead hooking out of the hole. You underestimate your car my friend. My friend's 01 SS race car ran 10.30-10.50 N/A with 483whp from a 402 LS2 and unlocked 3600 stall on a TH-400 and 9" with 4.11's. It was somewhat lightened but had a cage and full interior. Raceweight was 3400 with his 180lbs in it.

You will have about 200lbs more weight in your car with the iron block and other little odds and ends. His car 60'd 1.41-1.45 and pulled the wheels half way through first. Your car on a 200 shot out of the hole would actually hit harder. There is a bone stock appearing NBM LS1 SS that I see at the track all the time. It runs 9.90's with a magnaflow catback and a 300 shot on a progressive controller with a stock bottom end LS1. Don't underestimate what a nitrous hit out of the hole will do for your ET.

Oh I know it will hit hard out of the hole for sure. Was thinking a built ( lol I know) 4le60. A strange 12 bolt with 4.10s 35 spline axels. And a 3k locked convetrer with a straight pipe exhaust . Some long tubes to go with it

This post was edited by TeaRs- on Aug 29 2014 05:56am

Don't waste your money on a 12 bolt. The housing is not designed for a torque arm and it will start to twist and distort after a few hard launches. It may or may not break, but it will make noise. Spend a bit more and go 9" or go a bit heavier with an S60. Those are the only 2 choices if you want to keep from doing another rear end swap. People are building 4L60's better than they ever have. If you are going to keep it a street car that is the best option on a budget. A 4l80E swap is ideal but it is a bit more coin. If you stay with an overdrive trans you will definitely want the lockup converter. Magnaflow oval race mufflers sounds good on LT1's.

Want to link me a 9 inch when you get a chance. Havnt seen them for an f body. Also for tire size. I'm thinking some 9inches some oe knockoff Vette rims . They are either 9 or 9.5 I forget but . 9 with a radial would hook alright ? I'd love to go 80e but I'll run out of coin for that. Figure 1k on rims and tires. 2k on the trans 700 on the convertor and how ever much the 9 inch is, and oughky 1k for the nitrous. Another 700 or so for the exhaust and colder plugs

Price it out planning for the future too. An 80E will hold about 650hp for quite a while without touching anything internal. You can spend the money on the 80E conversion parts that you would otherwise spend on building the 60E. Then at a later date get the 80E built when you up the power or w/e. You can get an 80E pullout for about $500 in good shape. Price it both ways.


Most F-bodies you see running faster than 11's are on a 9". The bolt in S60 has only been around for a few years. Until then it was 12 bolt or 9". Money wise I'd either go bolt in S60 and deal with the extra little bit of weight or go straight to a fabricated 9" from Midwest chassis. Their fabricated rear comes out to about the same price as a Moser 9" housing but it is as light as a 10 bolt and much more customizable. I'm going with a Fab'd 9" for the Formula when I get to that point.

I would go with a 275/60/15 M/T ET Pro for strip/street or 275/60/15 MT ET Street for Street/Strip. You will want a 9 or 9.5" rim for that. You could run a 315 on a 10.5" wheel but you will need to roll your fenders a little or have the rear narrowed an inch or two on each side. Most people order their rear 2in per side so they can run an aesthetically pleasing negative offset on their drag wheels.

What's needed for an 80 conversion ? Also won't I need a computer just to run the trans ?

I'll look up the s60 when I get home, I Havnt herd of that before . Was planning also on run a 17 inch rim. For a little style. Iirc Justin had some 17s with et streets on his cobra

You can make it hook alright on 17's. It's much easier on a 28" tire with a 15" wheel though. It's worth buying a cheap pair of prostars or jegstars just for the track.


For the 80E you need a crossmember, driveshaft (which you need anyway because of the rear end swap), a converter, and a controller. Some of the controllers are really expensive for no reason. Jake's sells one that is very affordable. Later on when you have it built I would have a RMVB (reverse manual valve body) put in it and you won't have to worry about the controller.

9inch or die, there is so much support for them its insane, you can get parts everywhere...


also think about being able to borrow spares.....

The housing has to be modified to bolt on to an F-body so it's not a simple 1-2 swap. The 9" has the most options and parts available by far.


The S60 is a 9 3/4" ring gear. It's a bit heavier than the 9" but even more bulletproof and significantly cheaper.


CPR usually has the best deals on a bolt in S60 Tears

right, its gotta be a Fabed one like you said, but imo the 9inch is the "perfect axle" for almost anything