Quote (PeanutButter @ May 2 2014 08:40am)
Alright so I did a little internet searching, and I think I may have come up with what I want.
For the paint gun:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dvr-802343/overview/And then the paint its self:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up309/overview/If these seem like a good choice to you, then it looks like I'll have about 100$ in paint (And activator), and 150 in the gun for a total of 250$ paint job so far. I already have the bondo and glass bondo I need for the repairs, as well as the sandpaper.
So then my next question, paint prep. So obviously I'm going to peel the plasti dip and do the fender and quarter repairs, roughing the metal and then filling low spots with the fiber bondo, and finishing it off with bondo and a finish sand.
Question 1, what is the final grit that should be used on the repairs before paint?
Question 2, the car is bare aluminum under the plasti dip. Do you recommend primer first, and if so, which primer do you recommend?
Question 3, does primer color effect paint hue? I know this is the case with a lot of paints, will it effect this single stage paint?
Final question, and this one is just to get some input and opinions, how do you (And anybody else that would like to add input) feel this blue would look on a lowered NA Miata. You can refer to my other Miata thread to see the wheels and lips I am running as well.
Okay, so you have your paint, and your gun selection. Good.
1.) The final grit for most conventional paint jobs is around 320-400 wet. Sand up to this grit.
2.) Bare metal, especially aluminum is notoriously hard to bond to. I'd recommend lightly spraying, or "etch" the bare metal spots with an etching primer. Etching primer is sprayed extremely light (not going for coverage at all) right over bare metal, and once it flashes (5 minutes) you paint right over it. It's mainly an adhesion promoter. But I highly recommend. It comes in aerosol spray can form as well, so you don't have to buy yet another quart of material.
3.) Primer color will affect how easily uniform coverage is achieved. Only if the paint is light, and not uniform will the primer affect the coloration/hue of the paint. Ideally, for really nice paint jobs, you'd tint the primer similarly colored to that of the finish paint. This way it makes it much easier to achieve the color you'd want, in fewer coats, instead of trying to cover up a contrasting primer color with more than necessary paint.
But, for example, if I were spraying a black car. And it had some light gray primer spots. I'd hit the primer spots first, before applying paint to the rest of the panel.
The last thing you want on your fresh paint job is to see the primer areas bleed through.
Keep em coming, if you have any more questions.
This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on May 2 2014 06:18pm