People don't realize when you have to bounce an engine off the rev limiter at 7,000+RPM to go anywhere its not easy on things. Its like riding a 4 stroke 450 and a 2 stroke 250 on the same gnarly moto track. They can both do it but the 2 stroke is being stressed like 5x harder... you have to rev the SHIT out of the 2 stroke just to keep up.

Edit- Not to mention when talking about everything from basic to "all out" builds, when it comes to making HP & TQ the LS series is proven to be significantly more reliable compared to most everything else in general.

This post was edited by Killerme99 on Jan 28 2014 01:46pm

Yeah but the main thing is you can run a bone stock ls motor and make the same power as a strained smaller turbo motor so you don't even have to get to that point.

Yep

Power+reliability/weight is what makes the LSX so great for swaps. It's simple, very compact, reliable, cheap to mod, it sees great gains from minimal mods, it is efficient, it is cheap, and its LIGHT. That is the most often overlooked trait. An aluminum LSX+T56 is around 530lbs dry without A/C or any other unnecessary stuff. A 2JZ+V160 is around 750lbs.

2JZ with stock turbos on manifold
31"x30"x27" LxWxH

LSX
25"x20"x24" LxWxH

Length being front of balancer or W/P to back of block surface, width being total width at widest point, and height being tallest overall height from lowest point of oil pan to highest point of intake. An LS1 with a dry sump pan is only ~20" tall.

The near square dimensions and short length make it great for swaps.


The LS3 in that car sounds like it has a decent cam in it which would put it over 450whp on stock heads with great low end torque and drivability. At that power level with a good oil pump and valvetrain components it will let you beat the piss out of it for years.

herp derp ricer