Yeah just ordered mishmoto radiator, wanted rid of the 1 I had, wanted a full aluminum 1 anyways, and want to eliminate the resovoir I have also to free up a little space.


Radiator was fine just don't want it will put on ***/craigslist and sell it!

I will take more pics tomorrow maybe I can get more help.

I also just ordered a 2jz-gte Water pump swap kit, which elimintes the hydro fan.

shiiiiet

This post was edited by Avenger987 on Apr 13 2013 08:03pm

????????????

thx a bunch had same issue since yesterday, so i was copy pasting direct link instead and using the jsp tool to post the imgs
on radiator side of things, your fan looks small, maybe you could look for a wider one or 2 small ones depending on the size of your new rad, unless it cools pletty once you figure out your issue

This post was edited by BlueAndWhite on Apr 13 2013 09:28pm

I finally just now got to read this whole thread.

My question is: You had an electric pusher fan hooked up to the front of the radiator. Did you have a mechanical or electrical fan to supplement as a puller on the back side of the radiator?

Because this can very well lead to overheating at an idle. Much like when clutches fail on mechanical fans, and people don't know why they are overheating.

And with the thermostat problem, this is interesting. Have you tried running the car with NO thermostat at all?

Or just the simple. Check to see if there is flow in the radiator after coming to operating temperatures?

But since it sounds like you ordered a new radiator, you'll probably circumnavigate the issue anyway.


But definitely don't use the same pusher setup, I would recommend finding another spot for it. Preferably behind the radiator. (if possible) Not sure of space constraints. Looks tight.

This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on Apr 14 2013 09:25am

Just the 1 fan in front of the radiator.
I have not tried running the car with out a thermostat.
There is no flow in the radiator when operating temperatures come (there is flow however from the resovoir to the thermo stat).

So you aren't getting any cross flow in the radiator, and coolant is actually flowing from the overflow BACK to the thermostat housing? That'd be crazy.

Im assuming this is an overflow reservoir, and not a "fill" reservoir?

Am I correct in assuming this from what you've written?

Which makes me believe, as you probably did, that the radiator is potentially blocked.

The new water pump is a good idea, especially since it is a different design, and seems to work better. Because if you aren't seeing movement within the radiator at temps, the radiator is either blocked, or your heater core is blocked (only applicable if your HVAC is currently set on "hot"), or your thermostat isn't opening correctly, and lastly, the water pump is not functioning properly.

All these things, unfortunately have been mentioned.

But I think you're on the right track. An expensive one...but hopefully one with 180 degree operating temps as a final result.

This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on Apr 14 2013 09:56am

It's the fill resovoir radiator doesn't have a cap on it, other then that you are correct, I will take pictures and draw lines of how the coolant is going! The radiator isn't blocked though I put a hose in it and it flows both ways.

It's got to be thermostat as you listed not operating correctly, Or the water pump.

r the Heater core is blocked which I have a huge hint that it is!

When I get back from gym I will take pics of how it's set up! and do a little drawing on paint!

Gotcha, okay now I am a little better situated.

Yes, please do. I'm interested to see the cause of this problem.

I'll help you figure it out. There're only so many things if could possibly be. Luckily each is an easy fix.

I'll be watching

and the donation haha

Can't be the heater core! It doesn't have 1 in it! It's sitting next to the lsd I haven't put in yet either! lol. .