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Dec 28 2013 09:24pm
i had my friend C.J. who im teaching how to weld/fabricate build some proper “landing pads” for the bump stops. Driver side:







not the prettiest of welds but they will hold

This post was edited by KoJ on Dec 28 2013 09:26pm
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Dec 28 2013 09:27pm
It out-flexes the radius arms by a pretty impressive amount, real happy with that.

As for link length I tried to split the difference between loosing caster, maintaining pinion angle and proper anti-sqaut to avoid massive dive/lift under braking and acceleration. I haven't tested a ton but I'm tending to think, as you mention, that I might be better off with the upper link a little longer. Perhaps a few years from now my attitude will change, but as of now I have zero interest in relocating that upper bracket, however there is room to move it back a bit.

As it is now the driveshaft binds in the last bit of travel. I'm already running an offset u-joint on the t-case side and I'll need one on the axle side too. I am a little worried about blowing u-joints at full droop, given the angles and slightly weaker offset joints, but at least they're 1350's. I won't be too mad if I blow a joint though because that'll mean I'm out wheeling and getting it good

This post was edited by KoJ on Dec 28 2013 09:27pm
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Dec 29 2013 09:13pm
Quote (KoJ @ Dec 28 2013 10:27pm)
It out-flexes the radius arms by a pretty impressive amount, real happy with that.

As for link length I tried to split the difference between loosing caster, maintaining pinion angle and proper anti-sqaut to avoid massive dive/lift under braking and acceleration. I haven't tested a ton but I'm tending to think, as you mention, that I might be better off with the upper link a little longer. Perhaps a few years from now my attitude will change, but as of now I have zero interest in relocating that upper bracket, however there is room to move it back a bit.

As it is now the driveshaft binds in the last bit of travel. I'm already running an offset u-joint on the t-case side and I'll need one on the axle side too. I am a little worried about blowing u-joints at full droop, given the angles and slightly weaker offset joints, but at least they're 1350's. I won't be too mad if I blow a joint though because that'll mean I'm out wheeling and getting it good


Your always blowing ball joints anyways lol. And those welds don't look to bad for someone who is just learning . They looked better than mine before I ground then down lol
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Dec 30 2013 12:28am
Ball joints?
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Dec 30 2013 08:29am
Nvm I read it wrong last night lol.
Do you really get that much flex ? If the drive shaft is binding up that's got to be quite a bit
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Dec 30 2013 09:07am
Quote (KoJ @ Dec 29 2013 03:24am)
i had my friend C.J. who im teaching how to weld/fabricate build some proper “landing pads” for the bump stops. Driver side:

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l250/Dan90FSB/Dana%2060/IMG_0491_zps3acd7f54.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l250/Dan90FSB/Dana%2060/IMG_0496_zpsbb3ba4e8.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l250/Dan90FSB/Dana%2060/IMG_0495_zps51bd5f31.jpg

not the prettiest of welds but they will hold


Gotta learn somehow haha
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Dec 30 2013 11:15am
Quote (TeaRs- @ Dec 30 2013 06:29am)
Nvm I read it wrong last night lol.
Do you really get that much flex ? If the drive shaft is binding up that's got to be quite a bit


yes hahaha, i keep thinking about ordering coil overs and then telling my self i dont need them yet


eventually the front end and rear end will get bobed/dove tailed and it will get boat sided and a bellypan


thats gunna be fun :wallbash: :bonk:
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