stfu

Interesting idea. I hope closing the sub off like that doesn't cause a ton of unwanted NVH.

Why are you so salty?

Great car brother!

Update #2:

Decided to follow a DIY guide on painting the inside of the headlight housings. What an interesting task that was...

Dismantled the front end to get the lights off:



Popped them bad boys in the oven at 6000 RPM for 15 minutes:



Pried apart the adhesive:

Update #3:

Difference in paint:



Inner lense metallic reflective yellow, center housing satin black, and outside lense metallic reflective gunmetal silver.
All lights are still functional, the car has HID's as well so keep that in mind...

And the aftermath:



An excellent difference in contrast to the car.

Edit: so again, the present list for mods in the near future:

-Perrin pitch stop mount to reduce drivetrain shudder.
-Have a brand new bumper (unpainted) sitting in the closet to be cut for my FMIC. I have finally decided to go with an ETS FMIC that comes with a Garrett intercooler core.
--Perrin is poop, their core is an inefficient crap knockoff, especially at high altitude. It can support no more than 400 awhp at my elevation, and my application will now be going for 475 awhp.

Presently deciding if I will be going with one of two turbos:
1) Forced Performance GREEN (not much loss of spool, approximately 500 - 750 rpm until it kicks in, the dyno charts show that it will taper down at the higher rpm range similar to that of my present turbo)
2) Forced Performance RED (this thing is an induction beast for the application I am considering- it spools slower than the GREEN by around 250-350 rpm but it holds its boost pressure throughout the entire band)
--If I go the RED route, I will be upgrading valves and springs as well and increasing my redline to utilize the overall band performance to approximately 7,800 rpm.
^don't quote any rpm's to a T, they are rough estimates, thank you!

This post was edited by Andrewmhs on May 13 2015 03:19pm

What adhesive did you use to seal the headlights again? Just high temp silicon?

This post was edited by ozzyarmy3 on May 13 2015 07:30pm

No no, don't use silicone. There is an issue with the gases in it from the heat of the bulbs that will cause fogging on the inside of your headlight.

Here is a part number for what I used, it's like OEM:
CRL Black 777 Butyl Rubber Sealant.

As for the paints, here are their part numbers via Amazon/etc:
Dupli-Color Metal Cast Smoke - MC206
Dupli-Color Metal Cast Yellow - MC202
Rust-Oleum Paint for Plastic - Satin Black - 260770

I used very light coats for the Dupli's- to keep the reflectivity of the chrome underneath. My DRL's/Highbeams (same bulb) have maybe a 10-20% loss in light, but that's just a complete guess. I can barely tell a difference. HID's are not affected.

let us know if any condensation builds up. People on the 350z forums used to do that and I always wondered if they had condensation issues later down the road