Buys the N/A chassis, and decides to make an 800hp attempt.

That's the wrong platform. You literally have to change the drivetrain to the TT, just to start.


I'm not going to nit pick his posts, because if you actually read what he is saying, you have a hard time believing it.

Record for VG stock NA longblock is in the 850 whp range.
Factory longblock.

Transmissions are literally the same from NA/TT only difference is the bell housing.
Rear diff is just as beefy as the TT.

My bad, it's only 783whp for factory NA long block record.

You're correct on the internals being the same, for the transmissions. I'm talking about the work involved overall.

The rear end ratios are vastly different, and with a big hp twin setup, first gear will be worthless.

Different rear differentials (3.67 on the TT, 4.08 on the NA).
TT rear subframe is different to accommodate HICAS.
Driveshafts are different for practically every configuration (TT, NA, 5-speed, auto, 2+2, 2-seater).
Despite the transmission gearboxes being the same, the TT has a larger bellhousing to accommodate the larger flywheel, which also places the starter further outwards.
TT and NA speed sensors are different due to the difference in final drive ratios.
TT has a larger clutch and flywheel.


Now, I know things like changing a bellhousing and getting a better clutch go hand in hand with a turbo build.... You just picked a really labor intensive way of getting what you want.

I could see buying the n/a if it was a slicktop, but you have a t top - so you have the structural integrity of al dente pasta. Not something I'd want in a 800 hp (apparently going to be world record holding) build.

2 ways to skin a cat there. I'm not a Z guy so I don't know the difference in flow from one head to another. My comment was referencing the fact that a dished or domed piston is the same price regardless of CC.

There is also 0 chance you will make 1000whp on those turbos. There is a .1% chance it makes 800whp and that's only if the dyno is lying to you. They are rated at 360hp each. That's 720bhp. If you push them out of their map they might make 800bhp. That puts you at about 650whp which is where most cars I've seen with those peak on a glory run. Realistically they are good for 600whp.




That's all I see. It's not like a TT car is expensive. Buying the N/A version and building the engine, converting it to TT, and expecting it to hook at 800+ with a 4.xx rear end gear is retarded.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Dec 13 2016 12:31pm

Nah, that was z32 wiki speaking. I'm no expert on the z32. I just know some of the things he said didn't make sense to me. He chose the hard way to do it. As someone who does all of his own labor, and has converted a n/a car to modern forced induction, I am sensitive to the time and efforts involved with such things. You either need beaucoup bucks, (which if you had, why not buy the proper platform, and buy your head of choice?) or you do the labor yourself, which again - why do more work than what is required?

...the little things like installing a boost gauge, which the z32 tt already has, and countless other unmentionables will nickel and dime the builder of time, and the OP on billing, which could be spent on more productive means. Especially considering the severity of a 800 hp build.

There's a lot to be done in order to be safe, and at all reliable.

Maybe I'm not giving him enough benefit of the doubt, but the pragmatic side of me keeps me skeptical. I just don't see it.

However, that said, I'd LOVE to be proven wrong.

This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on Dec 13 2016 12:47pm

One of his reasons for buying the n/a car was it would save him on milling the head. My local machine shop charges $80 flat rate per head for flat milling. Angle milling is $120.

I spent $80 in brake parts cleaner when when I did the R&R on my vette. I'm with you, it doesn't add up. Check my last edit too if you didn't see it.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Dec 13 2016 12:53pm

Eh I can see 700-750ish if you overboost on e85.

Yeah, you won't end up saving any money when you factor in time, labor, and extra parts to convert.

If the vehicle held some sentimental value - then okay, fair enough. Do it for Dad, or Grampa, etc..

But the guys who build the good stuff - and I know you know this - have the build entirely planned out before they start*. They also choose the right base to start from.
This doesn't appear to be one of those builds. You don't just piece together a reliable 800hp build; you create a symbiotic system, only as strong as its weakest component.

And before I come off as a total douchecanoe, I'll leave it at that.

Hopefully he proves me wrong.



*at least for the most part.

This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on Dec 13 2016 01:10pm