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#11
Jan 9 2016 08:00pm
That's hardly a shit laminate. That's prepreg.

Carbon is stiff and light, but brittle - it shatters under impact. It absorbs a lot of impact forces and disperses them.

I imagine that this was in the design to break, should an impact occur, as it wouldn't potentially bend other, more important, portions of the sled.

I'd recommend not hitting anything in the future :D
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#12
Jan 10 2016 11:17am
Quote (OldAndyAndTheSea @ Jan 9 2016 09:00pm)
That's hardly a shit laminate. That's prepreg.

Carbon is stiff and light, but brittle - it shatters under impact. It absorbs a lot of impact forces and disperses them.

I imagine that this was in the design to break, should an impact occur, as it wouldn't potentially bend other, more important, portions of the sled.

I'd recommend not hitting anything in the future :D


Hehe yeah when I said shitpiece of carbon, I was not talking about the piece itself but more about why would they use a carbon piece so thin at this impact point. I guess they wanted to save 1/2 pound.

I understand that this piece might be designed to break before let's say the tunnel part, including cooling lines. But why not something that bend instead of something that shatter :/

Anyway could not find a aluminium tube since it's week-end, but I will temporarly use a shovel stick hehe ;p I think it's giving the sled a small vintage touch !



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#13
Jan 11 2016 06:57pm
New bumper ^^

Now just waiting for snow.. It's been rainning last night :((


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#14
Mar 1 2016 02:23pm
Have you had this thing out yet!?

If so how do you like the axys chassis?

My SBA is the older pro ride and I love it in the powder.

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#15
Mar 3 2016 11:37am
Quote (C0ntr4ct0r @ Mar 1 2016 03:23pm)
Have you had this thing out yet!?

If so how do you like the axys chassis?

My SBA is the older pro ride and I love it in the powder.


Did maybe 600km with it so far but like 400km of them on the trail :( Not enought snow at the moment and I'm leaving today for 3 weeks at the mine :((((


So far so good, I really used stiff front shock on the track and the feeling when it lift out of snow is pretty mad. Was able to hold 100ยด+ wheelies in middle deep snow :drool;

I went at the dealer for a check-up (as described in the owner manual) and they found some 10-68 weights in the clutch (2000'-4000' altitude clutching). They had to replace those since I'm riding at 0-500' alt. but I only paid the coil for 50$ so not so bad :p (I was kind of mad they put the wrong ones and it was dangerous for over reeving)

I like it more after 250+ km on the cluch cause now there are more particuls on the clutch walls and the strap is sticking hard on wot acceleration.

I def would recommend this snowmobile but I did not put enought kms on it to really note it.
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#16
Mar 5 2016 06:43am
Quote (OldAndyAndTheSea @ Jan 9 2016 09:00pm)
I imagine that this was in the design to break, should an impact occur, as it wouldn't potentially bend other, more important, portions of the sled.

:D


Feeling the same thing-
I think this is very important and should be considered before making your own metal replacement piece. I think it's meant to break and not absorb/disperse to the actual sled frame.


e/- put the wood bumper back on. Paint it or get some carbon fiber wrap.


(just my opinion)

This post was edited by said_aouita on Mar 5 2016 06:45am
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#17
Mar 5 2016 06:48am
Quote (said_aouita @ Mar 5 2016 07:43am)
Feeling the same thing-
I think this is very important and should be considered before making your own metal replacement piece. I think it's meant to break and not absorb/disperse to the actual sled frame.


Yes this is 100% acurate.

But the thing is this bumper is not supposed to take hits at all since it's more like a "handle" to help unstuck the snowmobile in deep snow.

In normal operation, we should never back up with this machine and none is supposed to hit us from behind (theoritically). The electronic reverse is more to store it in a garage at night or wathever.


-e/ The shovel wood handle is almost as stiff as the aluminium tube hehe. I prefer the aliminium with rivets instead of the wood with screws.

This post was edited by IHateDuriel on Mar 5 2016 06:52am
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#18
Mar 5 2016 06:52am
Quote (IHateDuriel @ Mar 5 2016 07:48am)
Yes this is 100% acurate.

But the thing is this bumper is not supposed to take hits at all since it's more like a "handle" to help unstuck the snowmobile in deep snow.

In normal operation, we should never back up with this machine and none is supposed to hit us from behind (theoritically). The electronic reverse is more to store it in a garage at night or wathever.


Yea, so we agree but you'll leave the metal one on and next winter, like a dumbass, you'll back into something again and bend something more serious. You'll be then thinking to yourself, "maybe I should have put the wood bumper back on."

;)
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#19
Mar 5 2016 07:07am
Quote (said_aouita @ Mar 5 2016 07:52am)
Yea, so we agree but you'll leave the metal one on and next winter, like a dumbass, you'll back into something again and bend something more serious. You'll be then thinking to yourself, "maybe I should have put the wood bumper back on."

;)


Like said in the edit above, the wood bumper is as stiff as the aliminium one (treated wood for shovel handles).

I learn from my mistakes and therefore will be extra super carefull while reversing in the garage. I just hope none hits me from behind with their machine.

I agree with you, the best thing to do would be to replace it for a oem bumper but I don't feel like behing ripped by a 16" x 1 1/4" carbon tube for 100$.
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#20
Mar 5 2016 08:37am
Quote (IHateDuriel @ Mar 5 2016 08:07am)
Like said in the edit above, the wood bumper is as stiff as the aliminium one (treated wood for shovel handles).

I just figured wood would crack/break easier, while aluminum would only bend. Still, whatever......I dig your sled. Looks fun.


How much snow ya still have?

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