Couple hours is a couple hours more then I wana spend lol


Pressure washer the shot off and towel dry and were good for another 3-4 months

A paint correction only needs to be done when it is needed. If you were to spend the 3-4 hours to do your bronco and put a really good sealer and wax on it you could do exactly as you describe and it would come out clean and shiny. Klasse all in one lasts 6 months. Once the paint is in good shape and sealed you actually spend less time getting it clean each time you wash it.




I've got another round of supplies coming in for the impending truck detail. I still have plenty of Klasse all in one from the last job I did. I ordered more Pinnacle Souveran paste wax, a few more compunding and buffing pads, and some powdered pad cleanser that I've never tried before. I contemplated trying out the Pinnacle black label Synergy which uses the same Carnauba as the Souveran wax but it is mixed with some synthetic polymers that give it a diamond like shine that is supposed to last 6 months. It's $195 for 5 oz so I'll stick to my Klasse/Souveran combo. I might experiment with the Trans Am after the paint has time to cure out completely.

Okay so.

I have some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound which I think will take care of most of my scratches....anything deeper than that and I think I'm pretty much fucked. I forgot I had it laying around, so I'm going to use this in conjunction with my orange pads.

I ordered:

Meguiar's M7 Glaze, gonna apply that after the compound with the blue pads
Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit (ya buddy)
Extra bottle of Meguiar's Quik Detailer for keeping the buffing pads moist as well as for the claying
Aerospace 303 for my interior

Gonna finish it all with a coat of Zymol Carbon.

Can anyone think of anything else? I think I'll be good to go for this weekend most likely.

That ultimate compound is very very aggressive. It is formulated for hand compounding. In conjunction with an orange pad it will be too much imo. You don't need to clay if you are compounding. You will be removing enough material to get the surface contaminants out. You clay before you compound to see if compounding is necessary to remove any etched in contaminants. I'll post again from my pc with more details.

Lmk what I need, gotta get this shit ordered.

http://www.autogeekmobile.net/xmt-intermediate-swirl.html

And

http://www.autogeekmobile.net/xmt-ultra-fine-swirl.html


#3 with orange

#1 with blue

then a polish/glaze

then a pre wax cleaner

then wax or sealant

Ok.

Ordered those 2. Will the Meguiar's M7 glaze work? Have that on the way already.

I would use some sort of polish on a finessing pad after #1. The #7 glaze has no cutting ability so it won't remove the fine swirls left by #1. I know it's a lot of steps but it will be worth it in the end. Once you get it corrected and sealed it will last a long time!


I washed my truck today and inspected the paint closely. It's worst case scenario. It should make for one hell of a walkthrough. Sitting in the parking lot of a chemical plant 14-18 days a month and getting rinsed by filtered river water from our car wash in the parking lot has dulled the plastic trim and left ridiculous etched water spots. I hope there is enough clear coat to get it all out.

Speaking of that how many good corrections can you do before you're fucked typically? And once you've gone through the clear what are your options besides a repaint?

Its subjective. Some makes have thicker clear than others and it even varies between models. They make instruments that measure the clear coat thickness but that is pro level detailing. If you burn through the clear all you can do is keep it polished, sealed, and waxed until you can have it painted.