More power than the stroker...

they can corner better than his boat lmao

yeah but when i boost things, i tend to want to build the entire motor to be able to handle the boost all day and night and having stock internals is kinda ehhhh for me.

Its not like my spirit r/t where the stock crank and rods are forged chrome-moly and the forged aluminum non interference pistons from the factory. The hemi motors are stout as hell but its also mostly cast and ive never forced inducted on cast anything.

which is why, i opted for the forged stroker kit, and then s/c after.

This post was edited by TURBO_DODGE on Aug 8 2014 04:18pm

You have to do some research and find what the limit of the stock bottom end is and go just under that. It's all about the tune. 600whp should be very safe especially if you run E-85. I'm no hemi expert though. After that you build the diff, trans, do suspension, clutch, etc. After all that is ready you forge it and slap on the bigger fuel system and blower. Do a D1SC with a nice bracket and pulley it up for whatever power level you target. Later on you can max it out around 800whp before you make the jump to an F series blower.


My friend Nathan went 10.70's IIRC with an Arrington 426 and an F1 procharger in his Magnum like 5-6 years ago.


If you build the stroker for boost now and run it N/A it' going to be a complete dog. You can't build a good N/A engine then boost it. Not if you plan to do either configuration correctly.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Aug 8 2014 04:29pm

the safe all day/all night boost limit on the 5.7 is 8psi. The intermittent beating on it limit, from what ive read, is 10-11 psi.



well obviously. i mean you cant stroke the piss out of a motor and have high n/a compression ratios and then dump a procharger on it. Obviously if i go that route the cr is gonna have to be dropped down to like 9:1. Stock 10.5:1 // i got my spirit r/t at 7.5:1

This post was edited by TURBO_DODGE on Aug 8 2014 04:33pm

Check my edit

8psi should make 550whp. If it is limited by detonation E-85 would let you run much more. If it is limited by weak rods etc it won't make a difference. Cast pistons usually break ringlands from too much heat. Detonation and too much timing are the main causes.


Exactly. 9:1 is going to drive like shit until you boost it. Cubes aren't that important in EFI FI engines anymore unless you are looking for over 1200whp. Less stroke actually makes them last longer, use less oil, etc.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Aug 8 2014 04:36pm

obviously if i boost it, its getting a progressive meth injection like my spirit r/t.

obviously not as aggressive to where it practically runs on the shit, but pure meth non the less.

i like to stick to systems that i have experience with that i know work.. i mean, i finished my spirit r/t a few years ago now already and other then tires,gas,oil, and a constant flow of methanol, ive stuck nothing into it and its been running flawlessly and taking the most severe beating i can throw at it without flinching.

This post was edited by TURBO_DODGE on Aug 8 2014 04:45pm

what i meant by the 9:1 is thats what i would make it /lower it to when i decided to boost it (swap out the 410 stroker pistons and rings for a lower compression setup)

Edit: I just looked some more, and i guess you can get from arrington, the 410 stroker, in a myriad of compression ratios, (not just the 10.5:1 like i thought) You can get it in 10.5:1-11:1 for n/a and 9:1-9.5:1 for boost

This post was edited by TURBO_DODGE on Aug 8 2014 04:51pm

E-85 is almost impossible to detonate. It's like running methanol for fuel instead of throwing it on top of gasoline. There is no pump to fail or nozzle to clog either. It's the best of both worlds.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Aug 8 2014 04:56pm

That's double work imo. Pulling the engine again just to swap pistons means another trip to the machine shop and more labor costs. Another $800 set of pistons etc.

If it were me i'd stay stock displacement if you aren't going for over 1200hp.