quit making troll posts and take it to a mechanic then

Remove all the nuts. Reinstall and tighten the nuts evenly.

I usually start from the middle, and work my way outboard.

If you tightened the balls out of a couple of them initially, they will most likely prevent the rest of the manifold to seat properly against the gasket surface.

It's the same reason you don't torque each lug nut on your wheels, until all of them are threaded to about the same point.

Even pressure. That's what you want.




Trololololool

This post was edited by OldAndyAndTheSea on Jun 5 2014 03:38pm

don't listen to this obvious troll.

using common knowledge about how nuts and bolts work......learn to troll better.

thank you very much for your wisdom... i have seen your threads and i have faith you know what your doing! so thank you again this is what i needed to know!

This...

Dont listen to the trolls... go buy a triangular discography it is worth the $500 it will make your life much easier and your engine wont blow up so soon.

Wow, nobody mentioned taking the carbureted electrical fuel injection wire off the intake manifold before removal? Way to try and get somebody blown up guys..

The carburetor is on the opposite side, not fuel injected, all the wiring bullshit is on the same side as the carburetor. and im not to certain about the intake manifold... :/

Good read

Take your car to someone who knows their shit. Your defiantly going to snap a bolt in the cylinder head. then your fucked. depending on where it is you may have to pull the motor to getc at it.

Worth the read lol

You're gonna want to tighten the nuts/bolts towards the front of the car more and the nuts/bolts towards the rear less.

It's an old trick used since racing was invented, it actually allows the CO2 particles in the exhaust accelerate faster than the HC molecules and makes your exhaust flow a lot faster!