Ruh roh raggy

Lever, meet rock. Rock, meet lever.

This is the same process as the clutch without the cable.





Ta da!

No, seriously. It's one bolt. Take it out. Clean/lube and install the new one. Adjust the lever push rod so it contacts the master cylinder plunger in the right spot to get the engagement where you want it.



With the clutch lever you reverse the process of taking it off. Re adjust the cable slack so you have just a little bit of free play.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Oct 17 2013 11:25am

What made you decide on those levers and how much were they? Im a pretty big fan of ASVs but they are expensive.

They are Moose cheapies. $30? I think? for both... lol. Since this is a woods bike I will be running hand guards so the sunline and ASV unbreakable levers aren't necessary. Also since it is a woods bike I will be on the clutch a lot so leverage is important to reduce fatigue. A full OEM length lever is good.

Protip on levers. If you aren't running unbreakables or a breakaway perch simply wrap 3 or 4 rounds of teflon tape under the brake and clutch perches before you tighten them down on the bar. They will hold just fine until you fall, then the tape will let the perch rotate. Usually you can knock them back into place and keep riding without bending or breaking a lever.





Some ding dong decided it would be a good idea to use a tool to tighten the aluminum oil fill plug.

It is hex shaped to help you loosen it if it is stuck with a pair of pliers, not to tighten it. It has an O-ring seal. You hand tighten it.

I can't stand shit like that so I replaced it with another one from Works.

Ya thats true.. I am getting more and more into woods and desert riding. Im too out of shape to be eating shit on a table top lol

Oil change time. Changing the oil and filter on a modern 4 stroke race bike is crucial to ensuring long engine life. They have very low oil capacity and use a wet clutch so the oil is doing triple duty. It is lubing the engine, the transmission, and the clutch. As such even good synthetics should be changed out ever 4-8 hours of run time depending on how hard it is being ridden. 4 hours of motocross is a lot harder on oil than 12 hours of putting around on trails. I change my oil and filter after every ride along with cleaning the air filter. The round cover with two bolts on the right side is the oil filter housing cover. Remove them with an 8mm socket and pull the cover off after draining the oil.







You can see how the cover is an active part of the oiling system. It has passages that direct oil through the filter. Every filter should come with a new O-ring for the filter cover.

I have always had more fun in the woods than on a motocross track. I feel like these machines are not meant to be confined to manmade obstacles. I don't care about whipping it out over a big triple. I would rather nail a technical obstacle in the woods.

It's still plenty risky especially if you are fast. The odds of suffering a(nother) life changing injury is not as high though. I can't afford to fuck myself up and not be able to do my job over a hobby. Hare scrambles require a completely different level of conditioning too.

fuck i miss riding so bad..

This post was edited by Krnboi12345 on Oct 17 2013 12:00pm

I run moose filters. They have the most surface area and the smallest filtration rating of any paper filter. They are cheap, they filter the best, and still flow enough. What more can you want. Some people out there actually think the reusable stainless mesh filters are an upgrade! Yeah you can reuse them, but some of them only filter down to 100 microns! That is shit. The rubber grommet slides over the nub on the cover. After replacing and lubing the O ring with a little oil slide the assembly back in.


Now, this is a good time for me to talk about bolt torque. Most of the bolts on these bikes are steel. Most of those bolt are being threaded into aluminum whether it be the engine case or the frame. Steel is stronger than aluminum. If you overtighten something you will not break the bolt, you will shear the threads or crack the threaded boss in whatever it is. That is bad. In some cases the entire engine case can be ruined beyond repair. Very little torque is required on virtually all of these fasteners. A service manual and a torque wrench with metric settings in kg/cm is the proper way to do it. Hand tight and "snug" is acceptable on almost everything though. After a while you can get it within a few in/lbs by feel.

The simplest way to prevent over tightening of fasteners on bikes is to use a 1/4 drive ratchet and grasp the ratchet by the head instead of the handle. This will prevent you from over torquing unless you are REALLY trying hard.






Now we move on to the chain and rear sprocket.




Start by removing the cotter pin from the axle slot so the castle nut can be removed. Then loosen the caste nut with the appropriate sized socket (32mm in my case) or a pipe wrench. DO NOT BEAT THE AXLE OUT. You can score the axle and the spacers very easily doing that. You should wiggle, turn, and pull the axle out smoothly. If you lubed it properly the last time it should slide out easily. Keep track of the spacers so you put them back on the correct side.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Oct 17 2013 12:10pm

nice! I should change my levers on my bike too, just gotta find/order them