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Feb 27 2013 02:08pm
Quote (JDH @ Feb 27 2013 03:52pm)
the only thing he mentioned being done was brake pads. that never involves opening the bleeder screws. perhaps he should check fluid level and make sure its not leaking.



Lots of people don't mess with compressing the piston in the calipers, and will just crack the bleeder while installing the brake pads.

I prefer it this way, at least personally.
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Feb 27 2013 02:13pm
Quote (OldAndyAndTheSea @ Feb 27 2013 03:08pm)
Lots of people don't mess with compressing the piston in the calipers, and will just crack the bleeder while installing the brake pads.

I prefer it this way, at least personally.


never heard of anyone doing it that way myself. if the system didnt need bled i wouldnt even open them.
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Feb 27 2013 02:15pm
Quote (JDH @ Feb 27 2013 02:13pm)
never heard of anyone doing it that way myself. if the system didnt need bled i wouldnt even open them.


i open it up when i do them because i can't find the right tool when the time comes because idiots have access to my shop.
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Feb 27 2013 08:12pm
I talked to my grandpa about it and he said that it would take about 30 miles of regular driving and braking to get a layer of something built up on the rotors. He said that after it was on there I should notice a big difference in how effective the brakes are. I put another 10-15 miles on it, and it's stopping much better than it did when I posted this. The feeling of being "mushy" is going away aswell. I should have been clearer I suppose. The pedal didn't travel farther than it should have, I just had to press harder than I did before to get it to stop, giving me the impression that it was mushy as I was braking hard and at the time was not slowing down as much as I would have liked. If things change I'll post again, but so far it seems to be fixing itself.
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Feb 28 2013 02:58am
Quote (skyeye @ Feb 27 2013 07:12pm)
I talked to my grandpa about it and he said that it would take about 30 miles of regular driving and braking to get a layer of something built up on the rotors. He said that after it was on there I should notice a big difference in how effective the brakes are. I put another 10-15 miles on it, and  it's stopping much better than it did when I posted this. The feeling of being "mushy" is going away aswell. I should have been clearer I suppose. The pedal didn't travel farther than it should have, I just had to press harder than I did before to get it to stop, giving me the impression that it was mushy as I was braking hard and at the time was not slowing down as much as I would have liked. If things change I'll post again, but so far it seems to be fixing itself.


i think this depends on the brakepads, i installed ACdelco ceramic pads and 1peice rotors on my 96 suburban and from day 1 it stops so hard the ABS will kick in on dry pavement with brand new tires....


maybe if yours are semi-metallic or some older composition like that?


your brake pedal should not have to travel FURTHER with new brake pads....there is more brake pad there, if anything it should travel less, like others have said, bleed your lines, its retardedly easy to do

http://www.amazon.com/25036-Bleed-O-Matic-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B000CMDP44/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1362041401&sr=8-4&keywords=brake+bleeder

used that on my grampas brakes, simple, but it works great, not a high-tech bleeder, just a loosen the nipple and pump the brakes type deal
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Feb 28 2013 05:04am
you just need to bed-in the brake pads, forget all the bleed drama
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Feb 28 2013 11:14am
you need to seet the pads, and you may need to bleed the brakes again, to get all the air out
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