It's been a while since I've posted any step by step tech stuff. When my parts come in I will do a little walkthrough even on the simple stuff. The easiest will be an oil change, then on to leavers, new numberplate decals, chain and bigger rear sprocket, and chain slider. I may even go over cleaning the air filter and greasing linkages. If I have time I will do fork seals too. Im getting ready for a big 2 day ride next weekend.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Sep 12 2013 03:34pm

put type-r and vtec on number plates imo

Parts are in. Im not tackling fork seals today. I just got off my last night shift. Im going to do the rest of the stuff and take a nap.

Nice... Once I get my truck road worthy again im looking at getting an 07 CRF 450. Cant wait to be back on a bike again.

wish i had this dedication to ride again. really want to get back out there on the bike, but being in college out of town is really hard. gonna track this thread, good stuff.

Man, my bike needs a refresh so bad. Graphics falling off, grips ripped up, plastics faded. . .

I tried formatting all of this shit from my phone but its a PITA. Tomorrow I'll get on the pc and put it together. Everything went fine. I didn't do the fork seals so it was all easy stuff. My graphics kit hasn't come in yet so I'm still rocking the old preprints. I was really hoping they would come in time because the tips I have for laying number plate decals applies to almost any vinyl decal.

Nice. My buddy had a KX for a while. ...He doesn't like to maintain things though, so it went to shit in a hurry. Why he didn't buy the less high strung KLX I'll never know.

That's not an aluminum sprocket, is it? They like to let go at the worst times, tearing a hole in your case if you're unlucky...

Yes it is a renthal ultralight. I took off a 50t and put on a 52t. I maintain my junk. As such I've never had one fail. You can't run an aluminum sprocket until the teeth are almost gone or you will eat it.

I completely forgot about this...


Ignore the blurry spot, it's mineral residue from moisture under the lens of my GS4's camera. I'm too lazy to exchange it.



Before







You can't tell in the picture but this clutch leaver is tweaked at the perch causing a hard and uneven pull. I don't need anything helping me get arm pump faster. Levers are cake. 10mm wrench on top, 10mm socket on the bottom, remove. Be careful not to drop the bushing. If you have never ridden a 4 stroke motocross bike the little lever on top is the Hot Start. High compression 4 strokes can be an absolute bear to start when they are hot, and these things get HOT! Even with perfect jetting they can be a PITA. Watch a few vids of pro motocross and supercross riders trying to get their bikes started after they wreck and you will see. The idea behind the hot start is the exact opposite of a choke. A hot start introduces extra air which leans the mixture and helps to get the bike re-fired after a stall or flame out. This bike is jetted pretty good but it's still a 3-5 kick affair if I'm tired. It's a 1 or 2 kick machine when cold.





Anyway, after removing the bolt and bushing I like to clean out all of the built up crap inside the clutch perch and mount area. Once it is clean simply rotate the lever upside down and twist to pull the clutch cable out. At this point I lube the clutch cable. Some people use WD40. WD40 is a solvent, not a lube.I take it a step further and blow electrical contact cleaner all the way through it to expel the gunk followed by compressed air to dry it. Then I juice it with a high end Dupont silicone spray we get at work that doesn't leave a residue. You don't want residue or anything that holds dirt or moisture in your cables! If your cables are teflon lined you should not lube them at all. I use Maxima Crystal Clear chain lube to lube the pivot points of the clutch lever. It clings really well and isn't as messy as grease. Dirtbike levers have a little bit of play in them so there really isn't much friction there in the first place.

This post was edited by FMX_89 on Oct 17 2013 11:04am