Heres my other thread with pics, etc.

http://forums.d2jsp.org/topic.php?t=66625928&f=136&o=0#p446458969


Short story = My Kenwood amp stopped working after 2 yrs with no sign of anything burning up

need to pull the bottom of the amp out to where all the paths are actually located on the bottom of the board from the perspective of the photos thats where we will really see if there is any dmg imo

usually its a cap that blows, but all your caps look fine.... probably gonna just have to pick up a new one


should look into hiphonics, it was recommended me by a friend and they seem to have a great pricepoint/reviews

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43129_Hifonics-GLX1400.1D.html

Hmm is it pretty straight forward to do that? There were quite a few screws..



Wow.. thats really cheap for 1000watts RMS @ 2ohm..

Anyone else have any input?

Btw I only really need 600watts RMS @ 2 ohm because these POS subs can prolly barely handle what they are rated at let alone more

This post was edited by Killerme99 on Feb 26 2013 10:40pm

I will let you know what i think of mine once i have it installed, i bought one of their 1000x4 models, 4 channel, 1000 watts (which honestly is 500w @ 4ohms for speakers)


going to wire it into my suburban, run my door speakers off the amp and my rear pillars off the deck...poor deck unit is shitting its pants trying to push 4 tweeters, 4 6.5s, and 2 4x10s


might be a few days though, im usually working pretty solid through the weekends...


As for the RMS power, i think they make lower powered monoblock amps, but if not they have some 600w 2channel amps that can be bridged for a sub/subs

This post was edited by Ice98 on Feb 28 2013 03:04am

Found my prob... gonna try to solder it in a bit

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

So......

Repired these connections... put all back together and tried it.. nothing


Took it back apart and spent about 20 mins going over the entire board and found several other questionable solder points.....

Fixed everyone I could see and put it back together... nothing

I think when the solder points came loose it fried something good





Anyone else have an opinion on this amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25536_MB-Quart-REF1.800-REF-1.800.html

Pretty sure im gonna just grab that and be done with it..

This post was edited by Killerme99 on Feb 28 2013 06:54pm

http://www.amazon.com/MB-Quart-REF1-800-Reference-Monoblock/dp/B004XCCAOK/ref=sr_sa_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1362100240&sr=8-1&keywords=mb+quart+ref1.800

if you want to save a bit of money. however the ref1 gives you the option of 1 ohm power if you get more powerful sub(s) later on.

Doesn't look like your soldering iron was hot enough...you don't have good solder flow at all. Those 2 surface mount resistors @ the bottom right-hand corner look like ass compared to the rest of them. Bad solder joints still spell problems. Try re-soldering those through-hole connections again and get it to flow evenly through the board to the other side so you know you have a good joint.

Sorry, all I do is work with electronics all day, so I know a little bit about this crap. I looked at your other thread and it doesn't look like any of the components burned up.....When I blew up my amp one of the IC's had fried (the black rectangles with multiple legs extending outwards @ the sides of the board) Try checking the ones that are covered up. The problem with electronics is it's much cheaper to replace than repair in most cases. Repairing stuff like this is easy if you know what to look for. Repairing this board would be easy if you had a good magnifying lamp, a schematic, and a meter to check the voltage at various points on the board ensuring the drops from the resistors are correct or if you're even getting power at all.

TL;DR It's easier to buy a new amp for most as opposed to trying to find the problem and rectifying it unless you enjoy that kind of shit and know how to read a board schematic and know how to measure voltage, current, resistance, etc.

This post was edited by Malevolent on Feb 28 2013 07:26pm