So I have a double and flush mount baffle on the front of my box (three baffles total) that was built for an swr1242d.

Out with the old and in with an HDS312 D2, which I put in the same box. The only issue is that the ID of the flush mount baffle hole is too small for the OD of the HDS312. As it sits now I just screwed it in without it being flush until I can get my hands on a dremel to widen the ID of the hole a bit. I'm wondering if the sub will severely underperform with the gap in between the bezel of the sub and the baffle. My inclination suggests that it won't considering there are plenty of people who choose to construct their boxes without a flush mount baffle, but I can't help but think that space might be leaking some air. It shouldn't be a big deal for now since I need to break the HDS in before I start turning up my gain anyways, but between then and when I can dremel it out I'm concerned.

Thoughts?

This post was edited by Mangina on Jun 21 2014 03:08pm

if its leaking air then it will be a problem. other than that its fine.

I'm not sure if it is or not. Guess I can try to hold the back of my hand up to it once I get some decent tilt going and try to figure it out.

if its leaking air then you will for sure hear it.. or you sub will sound odd.. I would cut the OD bigger with a sharp knife or sandthe shit out of it.. and that whole breaking in thing is crap.. subs suspension might loosen up over time but they are ready to bang fresh out the box. although AQ/SQ subs are stiff as hell right out of the rip.

This post was edited by eddsoulja on Jun 22 2014 07:34am

I feel like you just contradicted yourself haha. They recommend breaking it in so that's what I'm going to do.

And yeah i thought about going the sanding route but it would be much easier once I have access to a dremel.

seriously though the sub may loosen up over time but taking it easy on it wont help.. im not saying abuse it by clipping. but giving it proper power will "break it in". say it can take 1500 rms.. you can give it 1500 rms clean power. giving it 1000 rms wont be breaking it in.. just give it the power it can handle and watch your voltage and that will be consixered the break in. and if ur box is mdf. just get a sharp knife and a small hammer or something to hit it with and it will cut really ez

My understanding of the break in period is that it's not about clipping, it's about how much the cone can "flex". Meaning that at first it's a little stiff so you don't wanna start at full tilt, you want to ease it in and let it loosen up a bit, ultimately allowing you to safely play lower and louder with much less chance of damaging the sub. I'm not worried about overpowering it, it can take 1200 rms and my amp is rated at 1500 stable at 1 ohm (supposedly) but I don't keep it at max gain.

Either way it's only a suggested 2 weeks. I've been without a sub for almost a year now so it's not too bad.

all im sayin is give it clean power and you can throw full rms at it right out of the box.. I dont think you will be much happier. with this sub than you were your type r. and your gain isnt a volume knob. its there to match your h/u output voltage.

You don't think an HDS312 is better than an SWR?

Interesting opinion.

not really man. around the same. you wont be able to tell much of a difference if any. american bass xfl, fosgate t1, sundiwn SA, would all be around the same. now you may be able to hit the hds3 with more rms but if you keep it around 1000-1500 I doubt u can tell.

if you decide to switch sub setups again. check out SSA, Fi, or DSS..

This post was edited by eddsoulja on Jun 23 2014 04:01pm