Tried looking around to find a thread about it. But just looking for a cheap sub/amp combo to get a little extra kick. Stock speakers are good enough quality. Just want a single 10" for lack of room. I like to crank it a bit, but I won't push it too hard.
Wondering if this amp would work fine
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_14278_PowerAcoustik-CPT2-1500-1500W-Max-CRYPT-Series-2-Channel-Amplifier.html
With this sub
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40345_Pioneer-TS-W254R.html

Or if there's a better option for around the same price.

Only reason I'm wanting to spend so little is my current set up already sounds nice. And i've been on the fence about getting something extra. Car audio is also something I know nothing about so it'd be hard for me to go spend a lot on it right away.
Appreciate the quick reply though. Gonna be researching the next few days, but if you/anyone could recommend the wiring that would be required for everything, that'd be awesome.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63985_Pioneer-TS-W260S4.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44472_MB-Quart-ONX2.100.html
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KCA-K8 you can also order of this off amazon if you'd prefer using a well known site.

what are you doing for a box? making your own or buying prefab? if you are planning on using one you already have you'll need to do the math to figure out its internal volume and see if its right for the sub.

This post was edited by Subwoofer on Feb 6 2013 12:51am

Definitely appreciated. I'll probably end up looking it up, but whats the main difference between a mono amp like previously posted, and using a 2 channel while bridging for this use.
And what does an installation normally cost? I hate even thinking about paying for it considering I take cars apart as my job and it shouldn't be difficult. I just don't have room at the shop and my garage is probably close to 15 degrees.

And as far as the box, i'd make it myself. Easily capable of that, figuring out the volume / how to port it would be my only problem. Sure I could figure it out somewhere though.

This post was edited by JJRK on Feb 6 2013 09:30am

Mono amps are more for subwoofers. They have a higher/better Wattage output per the one channel.
2+ channel amps are "COMMONLY" more used to power mids/highs speakers/subs.

If you take it to a local audio shop, they normally charge anywhere from 60-150, depending how easy/hard it is.

Installs are VERY easy.
Run the power wire through the firewall/floorboard on whatever side the battery is, all the way to the trunk (hide it under panels etc.)
Run the remote wire down the OTHER side of the power wire (power wire driver side, remote wire passenger side.)
Find a good spot for your ground wire, normally a bolt in the trunk connected to the body, pull carpet up to see them normally. (use sandpaper to grind away paint so it has a clear metal/wire connection. The shorter the wire, the better.. But give yourself a little room to play with it.)
Run the speaker wire from amp to the sub. Run the rest of the wires (ground wire before power!!!)

If you need help, just ask here
Subwoofer is GG with anything/everything speaker related.
Also, many others here are very educated on it.


If you need detailed help, you can always take pictures of your setup/car/speakers and ask for advice that way... Where it should be ran, where to set it up.

Appreciate it man. Nice to know people will actually help out around here. Will most likely be a couple weeks before I get a start on this, but i'll track the thread and come back when needed.
Thanks again.

mono is 1 fat power channel instead of being cut up into smaller ones. this helps with wiring to lower ohm loads since everything is on a single channel. the downside to this is not many mono amps cater to the low power requirements in this build for a reasonable price.

that 2 channel will act as a mono amp when bridged and put out the right power at a reasonable price which is why i chose it.

by far the most time consuming part of the wiring process is removing panels to hide the wires under...if you skip this and just run it in the open it shouldn't take more than 10-20 minutes. and you can mess with hiding them later one.

also to add on to CJs post you also run the rca wires with the remote(thin blue) wire away from the power wire. you do this to avoid getting any interference in your audio signal.

yank the fuse in the power wire(assuming it comes installed) when you run it to avoid shorting it on anything.

Haven't put a whole lot of thought into this.
But the rca cable should go from the headunit down the "passenger" side. w/e.. to the amp
Power cable from battery (Positive correct?) ( best way to attach?) down the driver side to the amp. Think I heard that the fuse should be close to the battery?
Silver cable is all the wiring from amp to sub?


Definitely going to be looking up more info later.

ya rca/remote=ran down 1 side
power wire=down the other.

run the power wire on the side the battery is located on under the hood so you don't have to worry about it being too short in the end.

yes the power wire connects to the + terminal. yes the fuse should be under the hood area not back near the amp.

correct on the silver speaker wire.

you may want to consider purchasing a new + battery terminal for making the wiring easier.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21108_EFX-Core-C-Clamp-by-Scosche.html?from=701