lol same.

i mean christ you can get solder+tubes that shrink and solder at the same time which makes the entire process take just a few seconds.

the only time i use butt connectors instead of solder is if its a temp connection.

Eh its not the installers it's the shop owner that is in charge of how things are done... I believe crimps are just as effective and faster so no point in going with solder but think what you want. Can I see some pics of your installs since you're a professional. Atleast you do installs unlike Subwoofer.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 18 2013 08:15am

If your connectors come lose then you're obviously not a professional done crimps my whole life and they worked great everytime. and how does welding a mount compare to soldering a wire? that was the worst analogy I've ever heard theres no similarity between the two. If you really worked at a shop you should know how this shit works... and judging a professionals work just by "soldering" a harness is a pretty weak thing to do considering professionals do a lot more than install headunits most shops dont even solder their 0 gauge wire going to the front like we do. I'd love for your guys to explain to me how to wire a starter on forign cars of how to install a headunit on a forign car and what parts are needed. Were like the only shop that does starters and shit like that because nobody knows how to do it.

You two couldnt begin to do the work I do on a daily basis so why talk shit? But go ahead solder your little connections and feel like pros LOL if thats what makes you happy.

Go ahead and solder your connections but in a shop its not up the the installer he only has what is at his disposal and a set time to do it.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 18 2013 08:20am

You havnt even ever done an install before lmao dont act like you do anything. Even the professionals don't solder their headunits I've never done it never had one single problem.



and its people like you that keep me on the job because I have to fix your messes.


All I can say is if you guys are going to talk shit back it up... I wanna see some installs some pics I wanna see your shop if you work there because I dont believe either of you has come close to being shop worthy. Doing this shit on the side in your own time is not even remotly close to doing it in a shop.

Do either of you run 2500w systems hitting close to 150db @ 30hz? never blown anything etc? if so lemme see it if not please be quiet because I have over 100 installs under my belt including car starters etc. I've done work on 2010 cadillacs and 2013 ford trucks most cars we do shit on are worth over 30,000. If you fuck up 1 thing clip 1 wrong wire you could cost the shop thousands of dollars.

My shop does 2-3 installs a day and we never have a unsatisfied customer never had anything blow or anything our installs are long lasting and reliable and we do it in a timely manner and the customers always happy. If you ask me thats a job well done and didnt require any stupid soldering and shrink tubing.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 18 2013 08:27am

It's actually said that Soldering is worse because in boats it can corrode and snap. Also it costs more and is a pita to remove and uses more wire then a crimp, crimps are stronger and just as reliable if not more reliable because its not a piece of tin that can rust and corrode.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=352115

heres a nice little informational thread if you two would like to read up on the two and how they differ one being better than the other in different instances. I can assure you no shop and no professiaonl would solder their harness just a big waste of time and money and thats why shops dont do it.

Do you think its hard or something to solder? I could solder a harness as easily as I butt connect it. Just no point and the boss wouldnt want us to do that and I dont see why we should need to. Do a google search on soldering harnesses and 9/10 say not to bother.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 18 2013 08:36am

the entire damn point of the shrink tube is to stop corrosion by keeping air and moisture from getting to it.

so happen to have any arguments besides an ignorant one?

No the entire point of shrink wrapping is to keep the solder connections from touching each other and to maintain bulky wires. Shrink wrap does not stop corrosion at all only specialty shrink wrap and only on curtain types of metal such as iron. , got anything to say that's actually true and not your opinion? Solder joints are nowhere near as strong or dependable as butt connectors and take twice the time time/money to apply so why the fuck would a shop use this method?

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 18 2013 11:19am

since you seem to require a website showing you that you are wrong

http://www.awcwire.com/faq-heat-shrink-tubing.aspx

"Heat shrinkable tubing is a great way to protect electric wires and cables from harmful elements such as water, oils, acids and other environmental hazards."

weird......who knew that something designed to basically melt onto a wire would also seal the connection....

Ive had butt terminals so tight I couldnt have my friend hold the wire and me yank it out and im 255lb's. With solder it breaks a lot easier especially over time and just isnt as good all around sure it looks cleaner and is nice for some applications but altogether its barely any better and a complete waste of time.

Sure shrink tubing does provide some extra sealing that can keep out moisture that causes corrosion but thats not its main purpose:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing

read the definition.

Heat shrink tubing (or, commonly, heat shrink or heatshrink) is a mechanically expanded extruded plastic tube ordinarily made of nylon or polyolefin, which shrinks when heated to between one-half and one-sixth of its diameter. Heat shrink tubing is manufactured in a multitude of varieties and chemical makeups with the exact composition of each type being dependent on the intended application. From near microscopically-thin-wall tubing to rigid, heavy-wall tubing, each type has precise design and chemical additives that make it suitable for meeting any of a wide variety of environmental demands. Heat shrink tubing is rated by its expansion ratio, a comparison of the differences in expansion and recovery rate. Heat shrink is used to insulate wires, providing abrasion resistance and environmental protection for stranded and solid wire conductors, connections, joints and terminals in electrical engineering. It can also be used to repair the insulation on wires or to bundle them together, to protect wires or small parts from minor abrasion, and to create cable entry seals, offering environmental sealing protection. Mainly providing protection for bigger machinery made of iron then later adapted.

Basically exactly what I said. even with heat shrink copper and metal will corrode most heat shrink only helps protect iron because it was primarily used to conserve large equipment for storage not doing wiring it was later adapted in the audio world.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 18 2013 11:31am