i guess they added a new type of wire from the last time i had ordered

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK20 with 120 main and 2 60's
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KRY2.6M 1 set fo 2 channel and 1 set of 4 channel
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KRY2.05M for the connection to my bass knob

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/cz-series-6-5-2-way-component-set.html front set of speakers no backs yet not planing as of yet

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item65896Kenwood-KDC-BT955HD.html deck im going to use
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item44472MB-Quart-ONX2.100.html 2 channel amp for the front speakers
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item40528NVX-SDVK4.html for both doors around the speaker area
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item22349The-Install-Bay-VXT62.html speaker baffels for the front
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item40536NVX-XBRC.html bass knob i got one in my current car it works awsome

current items to be reused

http://www.jlaudio.ca/12w1v2-4-car-audio-w1v2-subwoofer-drivers-92074 2 of these in a box
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m500 powering my subs atm powerfull little amp

so what do you all think of what i got planned?


sonix stuff is $445 shipped
knu stuff shipped is $222.61 shipped
and Speakers are $150 shipped

give or take $820

This post was edited by DragonSoldier82 on Aug 17 2013 05:57pm

Don't buy those JL subwoofers overpriced garbage. Also KnuKonceptz uses 5200 Strands of OFC while other companies like Kicker and Memphis only use 4700.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 18 2013 08:34am

seriously...learn to read.

"current items to be reused"

Me learn to read? mr puts words in my mouth lol you dont read a damn thing anyone types.

that's right...deflect and ignore when someone points out your mistakes.

Sounds familiar huh? kinda exactly what you did hypocrite just like changing the subject in that last topic when I continuously proved you wrong about the alternator lol.

again..you didn't prove anything. your entire argument was based around opinion and DC audios website(which says you need a high output alternator yet you say you don't)...mine around ohms law, knowing what causes voltage drop, knowing why big 3 upgrade works, knowing that while your vehicle is running the alternator provides power..not the battery like you thought etc

so keep up the deflecting when your only source of "reliable information" is a source that calls you wrong.

Mines based around fact from companies that make the product and people that thoroughly test them yours is on science and what you think is correct... Just because it says something doesnt mean its 100% accurate theres too many factors in a system to outright tell what can do what. The fact is DC themselves said you dont need an alternator upgrade they say it plainly because the 2k they do say you need it. you're so dense it's not even funny. I even provided videos that show my voltage being perfectly fine and I have people on new england spl forums stating that it would be fine.

You are just thick headed and full of yourself you cant be wrong for once but you were and we both know it just like your shrink wrap debate and everything else pointless and retarded you hate for the sake of hating u dont even have a system u cant judge or say shit about anyones setup. You're a wannabe just go somewhere else the audio forum doesnt need scrubs like you theres already plenty. I know more about car audio when I was 14 than you do now. Just saying. Done with you man jsp needs a ignore button so I dont have to waste time arguing with people like you who cant even face the facts.

The only people who think you're righta nd have your back are scrubs that know nothing dont pride yourself because d2 boards think you're smart theres a reason you dont go on the caraudio.com forums and shit because you'd get laughed at and trolled and we both know it.

/2cents all done.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 18 2013 03:06pm

back to the dodge factor

you claim dc audio is correct in their recommendations

however you also claim:



so why is it that dc audio recommends a high output alternator for your power ratings but you claim not to need one?

your own source goes against your claims...seriously learn to read and comprehend. you are essentially arguing against yourself at this point.

and still waiting on the explanations to these points you've made:

amperage isn't constrained by wire gauge
lights dimming is not caused by voltage drop
voltage drop isn't caused by your electrical system being unable to keep up with power requirements
your battery is what powers your car when its running

so cmon mr pro installer.....explain this nonsense you've claimed.

This post was edited by Subwoofer on Aug 18 2013 03:49pm

wow off topic

the cars battery only use used to start the car and be used when the car is not running

when the car is started by the battery it has not more use for it so it charges it plain and simple

when you see your lights dim its then there is to much amperage being used that alt can produce
so in turn it like your getting air from a straw and when you cover or squeese the straw it take more and more
force to get that air and in turn you suffacate lack of air, i hope this can shed some light on things

other then that the cars battery is never used, how ever on 30kw systems you need a beefy alt or few to make up for the
amps needs to play your music, the batterys are only used when there is not enought amps to go around and to make it smooth
even out the ripples.

this is from my understanding of stuff i know from high school auto class 15 years ago

This post was edited by DragonSoldier82 on Aug 18 2013 04:48pm