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d2jsp Forums > Off-Topic > General Chat > Car Audio > Question > New Battery Vs. Capacitor?
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Jan 4 2012 11:21pm
Don't worry with a cap, gonna copy a post from caraudio.com

Quote
i'll give it a stab. caps aren't useless it's just that they are so misused. a cap should only be added to an already upgraded electrical system. what they do is release energy so fast to your amp. sometimes an alt doesn't kick in in time to get the amp the current it needs to hit that big bass note, so the cap can dispose the current quickly too the amp, and then recharge. people think that adding the cap will make all there electrical problems go away. the cap draws on your electrical system to store current. not only now do you have an amp draining you system, you add a cap to it. plus the capacitor only stores maybe a second or 2 worth of current before it needs to recharge. a capacitors main purpose is too provide quick current to the amp when it demands it. sometimes an alt isn't fast enough to deliver that current at that split second for a big bass note
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Jan 4 2012 11:29pm
Quote (Subwoofer @ Jan 4 2012 11:10pm)
he said his current battery cca was only 500 max so how is a 750 cca yellow top going to be worse?

there are plenty of 6 1/2 subs on the market. subs are about low frequency response not size.

red tops are cranking models. yellow tops are dual purpose models.

deep cycle dry cell fits his needs perfectly. he doesn't need more cca than a mid range yellow top. it will last a lot longer than a wet cell and end up costing much much less.

"adding more amps" is a bad way to give advice. he should focus on rms watts total in order to properly upgrade his electrical system to the correct specifications.


I was simply informing him of the distinction between a deep cycle and a regular battery...and that deep cycle batteries of a given size have less CCA than a regular battery. Like I said, he would be fine going with a deep cycle battery as you suggested, but there is also no harm in selecting a regular battery with more CCA given the climate he lives in.

Also, size of a driver is almost always a direct reflective property of their propensity to be able to reproduce a low frequency. Drivers are limited by the laws of physics in their ability to reproduce low frequencies...larger drivers are simply more able to reproduce lower frequencies. Most people would agree that a 6.5 driver is a mid bass driver, not a subwoofer and that ture subwoofers start at 8 inches.

Furthermore, he should focus on continuous watts total, not necessarily rms total simply because of the misrepresentation of rms (which by definition does not mean continuous power) power by most audio companies. True audio companies will advertise their components continuous power, not rms power.

@OP: I apologize if I'm starting a debate. I'm simply trying to explain a few things in greater detail so you can understand why we are recommending certain things.
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Jan 4 2012 11:41pm
Quote (Wakeskater77 @ Jan 5 2012 12:29am)
I was simply informing him of the distinction between a deep cycle and a regular battery...and that deep cycle batteries of a given size have less CCA than a regular battery. Like I said, he would be fine going with a deep cycle battery as you suggested, but there is also no harm in selecting a regular battery with more CCA given the climate he lives in.

Also, size of a driver is almost always a direct reflective property of their propensity to be able to reproduce a low frequency. Drivers are limited by the laws of physics in their ability to reproduce low frequencies...larger drivers are simply more able to reproduce lower frequencies. Most people would agree that a 6.5 driver is a mid bass driver, not a subwoofer and that ture subwoofers start at 8 inches.

Furthermore, he should focus on continuous watts total, not necessarily rms total simply because of the misrepresentation of rms (which by definition does not mean continuous power) power by most audio companies. True audio companies will advertise their components continuous power, not rms power.

@OP: I apologize if I'm starting a debate. I'm simply trying to explain a few things in greater detail so you can understand why we are recommending certain things.


yes a larger subwoofer can reproduce lower frequencies better but a 6.5 inch subwoofer can easily do 30hz or less. like i said subwoofers are by definition determined by frequency reproduction not size.

rms ratings still remains the standard for judging power usage. when continuous becomes the standard i'll be more than happy to switch over to using it instead of rms.
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Jan 5 2012 02:28am
They are 6 inch subs , not speakers , I hooked them up to my amp to hear then run ( not goin to buy something before I hear it)
And they did put out low tones

I'm not sure completely right now but more than likely im going to end up with a new battery , see how it runs and take it from there

My battery has only drained the two times I mentioned , and the battery was pretty shot when I got the car a could months ago to begin with


Just wanted to hear what people have to say about my situation
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