Quote (RSDXzec @ Aug 4 2012 10:25pm)
Yeah I generally use 13volts to overaccount for any voltage drop then divide by amp efficiency so for a class D amp i'd get about 90Amps draw full tilt with 1000wrms.
My alternator is 85Amps max and my battery is a pile of shit, something like 25Ah so I can't use over 500wrms without the amp cutting out from voltage drop. Suggestions online say 75Ah per kwrms is good to go by with 50Ah being the minimum. My subs are capable of taking 1000wrms and my amp can put out more so right now the biggest that can fit in my engin*** would be 85Ah and I'm working on figuring out if I could try and make room for a 100Ah batt.
Another thing though, would you say using a Deep Cycle battery as the main cranking battery should be fine? Read a lot on the net that says they're made only for low output for long periods of time, but I'm looking for a single battery setup as I agree with a lot of what you posted.
you have to also account for your cars normal power needs. your car generally uses about 50 amps with headlights,blower motor and so on.
so if you even managed to fit a 100AH battery you would still deplete it to unusable levels in about an hour with 1000rms+cars electrical needs. bigger batteries are only time delays they won't fix the problem.
what car are you using? a lot of times you can salvage a 30-40 amp better alternator off another vehicle made by your cars company.
you've done the big 3 upgrade right?
people saying that about deep cycles are silly. current AGM deep cycle technology can do just as much as a non-deep cycle performance wise it just needs to be about 10-20 percent physically larger. for the size trade off you get a battery that last 5 times longer,doesn't lose voltage if you deplete it,can recharge from nothing many times before you do any actual damage.
and ya the world filter is annoying lol. it thinks you are try to say a popular site beginning with E.