Here what I would recommend: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/6Q9Byc
That will definitely last you 5 years without needing upgrades.




750W will be plenty. SLI 980's only really need about 550W, but I prefer to recommend a decent amount of headroom since capacitors degrade over time and you never want to be right on the edge of what your PSU can supply.





I've heard that awhile back, I think that was before they perfected MLC technology (SLC's were always too pricey for consumer grade products). However, by today's standards an SSD will generally outlast an HDD, and Samsung's SSDs are some of the best. They all come with 3 year warrenties (HDDs come with 2 year) and are rated for 1,500,000 hour MTBF. They also don't slow with wear, as HDDs do.

Just trust us on this one and get it. When it comes to random read/write speeds, you really can't compare HDDs (75-100 IOPS) to SSDs (70,000-100,000 IOPS).





You hit the nail on the head. Enough space for any and all parts and to provide good ventilation. With someone at your budget I like to recommend picking out a good case that you like, if aesthetics are at all important to you.
If you're not sure where to look, my usual recommendations for someone looking for a mid sized chassis are: Corsair 400R, Corsair 750D, NZXT Phantom 410, NZXT H440.

Of course there are tons of other options, feel free to look around, post a few you like, and we'll let you know if they're not horrible.






The 900 series cards are new releases and are dominating the market with their amazing price:performance ratio. Almost anyone with a ~$800+ budget should get a 970. Your budget is large enough for the more powerful 980, which can easily handle essentially any game on the market today on Ultra settings. Chances are you won't have to bother with SLI until 4k gaming becomes the norm.

Sanity, that build you posted is over 2k. For some reason, one of the graphics cards is showing $0.00 instead of $585 =P
YOU'RE OVER BUDGET MADAM

I put the extra 0'd GPU in because he said he was going to SLI in the future. Just showing all the parts and Watt usage for the future.

@OP: Just get one GPU for now, add a second in the future when it's needed.

This post was edited by SanityWasHacked on Oct 16 2014 07:49pm

If we're going that route, may as well throw in an i7 4790k instead of the i5 4690k for whenever games eventually take advantage of hyper-threading.

This post was edited by DeXaFiLaH on Oct 16 2014 07:52pm

hyperthreading been around along time, your post is pointless

This post was edited by yupitsmeh on Oct 16 2014 08:02pm

Hyper-threading has been around for a long time, yes, but I never disputed that. Most games just don't take advantage of it. Games rarely (if ever) use more than 4 cores (and most still use 2) so hyper-threading is nearly pointless. However, this is likely to change in the future.

So, in retrospect, your post is the pointless one, not mine.

What I might do is go with the 10k rpm 1tb hdd for now, and get a SSD in a few years when they perfect them... I've been reading that there's still issues with files getting corrupt, and being unable to even access certain chunks of data in the SSD as time goes on. Might have to do a bit more research on that aspect though...

Can you explain to me why you chose different power supply, memory, optical drive, and motherboard? Does one company make a more efficient 750W power supply? Is one set of 16gb memory better than a different companys? The original build has the MSI gaming 7, which is SATA8, compared to the 5 which is SATA6. Does that matter? These are the small things my brain gets caught up on with this shit. I want to make sure I'm getting the most bang for my buck, along with the fact of not wanting to have to upgrade for at least 5years... and the fact that I'm ignorant on the small shit irks me.

And with the case, I don't give two shits about aesthetics. I want something with ample ventilation and more than enough room to fit everything. The antec 900 caught my eye because of the huge top fan that would suck the hot air out as it rises, but if you know of one that is far superior... let me know. I'd gladly spend an extra 80 bucks for a superior case.

Edit: I've been looking at that 980, I'm definately buying that. The benchmarks are unreal for the price it's at right now.

This post was edited by Alt+F4 on Oct 16 2014 11:04pm

Its worth it to get an SSD, even now. The only two things you should watch out for is constant writing/rewriting and defragging. Never defrag and SSD and don't torrent to an SSD. Make your torrents save to your standard HDD and just install programs on your SSD. Besides, the Samsung 840 Evo has a 3 year warrant. If it fails in the first 3 years, you get a new one from Samsung. If not, then you're still good to go.

Also, I'm not sure where you're seeing a different Motherboard. The one Urbanshaft posted is a MicroATX board while Sanity and I both posted the same board. The optical drive doesn't really matter because they're all pretty much the same. As for the memory between Sanity and I, she picked the 2x8GB while I did the 2x4GB of the exact same RAM. The only difference between the two is the CAS Latency, which is only different by 1 and won't noticeably affect performance under normal use. It'll just change eventual benchmark scores slightly. As for the power supplies, the Antec I picked is a tier 1 power supply (and its cheap!) but is only 620W while the EVGA G1 Sanity picked is a tier 2 but higher wattage. Overall, they should perform about the same but you're going to want more power from either if you play to ever get 2 video cards and SLI them. You'd be fine with a 750W Tier 1 PSU or about 850 Tier 2 - this is speaking over a long period of time (4+ years) since the parts tend to wear out.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FLz9RB

Just modified slightly to a tier 1 PSU and added a good (but expensive) case. The case I added supports 280mm radiators on top so you could get a Corsair H110 or NZXT Kraken x61 instead of the Corsair H100i as your cooler (which would add about $30 either way). Also, the only other possible thing you could really change is getting the ASUS MAXIMUS Hero VII Motherboard which would add about $65 overall. Its a better overclocking board, but if you don't want to overclock (extensively), it isn't necessary.

This post was edited by DeXaFiLaH on Oct 16 2014 11:30pm

The original build I had was the same MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard, except it was the 7 model with SATA8 instead of SATA6. I'm going to go with 16gb memory, but which do I go with? Original build was Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory, you guys went with G.Skill Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory. Does it matter which I buy? I don't even know what DDR3-XXXX is. (I'm a complete newb, if you haven't noticed already.)

Same thing with the power supply, original Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply, yours EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply. Is it just preference, and i'm nit-picking on shit that doesn't need to be nit-picked?

And yeah, I'm not going to fuck with OC'ing. That 980 has a built-in "overclock" for different settings, that's as in-depth as I'll get with overclocking. Maybe once I'm more knowledgable on the subject I might, but yeah... I'm a dipshit with this stuff. I doubt that'll change.

Get the EVGA PSU. Its the same wattage as the Corsair but its fully modular instead of semi-modular and the Corsair HX series is only Tier 2 PSU (the EVGA P2 I linked is Tier 1).

As for the MoBo's:
SATA8 just means there are 8 SATA 6GB/s ports on the board. SATA6 = 6x 6GB/s Ports
Unless you plan on getting more than 5 HDDs, you have nothing to worry about between the two boards)

Also, get the G. Skill. DDR3-XXXX is the speed/clock setting of the RAM. The higher the number, the faster it goes. However, the higher the number (usually) the higher the CAS Latency gets. Although, the G. Skill is DDR3-2400 is has a CAS Lat of 10 whereas the Corsair is DDR3-2133 but has CAS Lat 11. The G. Skill is better in every way.


You would be absolutely safe purchasing the build I posted here. (Post #18)
Its essentially the build Sanity posted with an upgraded PSU and a case.


/e
If you're wondering where I'm getting these "Tiers" for the power supplies:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html

This post was edited by DeXaFiLaH on Oct 17 2014 12:32am