Use bitumen based spray paint in it, its really good antireflect. Its the one thats used in bottom of cars to soften the small rock hits, and graffiti writers use it because it covers chrome paint really well. Little warning tho, it wont dry hard like normal spray paint, so make sure you clean the surfaces that lenses touch and let it dry really good(it will still stay so soft that you can rub it off with nails pretty easilly). Other option would be black matte spray paint, but it will reflect more than bitumen based paint. Allso one thing you should be aware of is that when you put the lenses on the tube, do it in really dry and warm place, so it wont collect huminity when u temperature changes. Maybe you could warm up the tube in oven a bit before you insert the lenses on it.

If you know some graffiti shop where you can find montana spray cans they make really good bitume paint, there are meny others too, but you never know if its crap or not and crap one is too crap to be used. Fake montanas(germans) have theyr bitume paint names tarblack and sold in 600ml cans, real montanas(or mtn mtn because fake one stole its name) is called nitro and its sold in 500ml cans. If you live in copenhagen there should be several shops selling montana and mtn mtn paint. If you buy mtn mtn nitro tell the seller that you want the bitume based one in 500ml can, because there is other black nitro that im not sure if its bitume based but its sold in 400ml cans, not 500ml.

How far away you were from that fly when u took those pics?

This post was edited by Antichrist- on Aug 4 2009 10:51am

Thank you very much antichrist-!
I know of montana cans, but I do not live in Copenhagen. Bit I will try to get some bitumen based paint. (In the old days, we used it because it was hard to get of trains and walls :P) But thanks for the advice with the cans.
I think the black matte do not work like you said. First I will try a black piece of cloth, because of the texture. Maybe the problem is from the lightbeam not beeing parallel with the tube, but it will be fixed when I make the final lens.

I just glue on the filter, not the lens.

About 7cm I think.

This post was edited by Qhotex on Aug 4 2009 11:01am

Today I bought cloth and putted inside the tube = A lot better!
I made a new stabilizer construction for the lens and body, and now I can move the camera forwards and backwards without moving to the sides.

For this shot I used 4 photos, but only the sharp eyes. (I need to make better photos for the nose and hairs).

Unedited:



Edited:


This post was edited by Qhotex on Aug 5 2009 08:39am

DAMN!!! that is amazing detail i don't think i've seen a macro go this magnified before

Thats amazing, I prefer the unedited though. Are you just making an extension or are you building a lense?

It is just an extension. But it is a reversed macro since I reversed the lens in front of the extender. So manual focus and F= 0

Awesome! The latest photos are much much better so crisp and clear!

Its not f-0, its just shows 0, real f-number is what ever the lens is wide open. You could have putted f-number what you want to use by changing the f-number when lens was in one piece and pushing dof previer button same time as taking the lens off the last time. For this close you should have putted f-22. Would be better idea to make this extension to some manual lens where you can change the f-number from the lens instead of camera, like some m42 or old nikon lens.

Thanks for the information. :9
I was thinking of trying to take an other lens and put on the camera and then i can change the F.



Thanks.