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Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 5 2022 10:35am
Taking care of some rust spots in the back now. Used the same method as before. Cleaning, sanding, degreasing, rust converter, primer, paint, clear coat.










And the wheels came in! I specifically wanted these. They are Buddyclub P1 SF wheels. I couldn't find any for sale in the Netherlands. I bought these from a guy in Ireland. They are kinda rough now, but I will have them powdercoated asap!



Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 5 2022 03:50pm
Bigger upgrades coming soon.

I removed all suspension and brakes on the rear. Empty wheel wells now!
Bought Honda Integra rear brakes because they come with disc brakes instead of drum brakes. Everything looks kinda rough but I will sandblast all parts and paint them.

I also ordered:
Hardrace adjustable toe kit
Hardrace adjustable camber kit
New trailing arm bushings
New rotors
New pads
New e-brake cables
New d1 spec lower control arms
New SKF wheel bearings
And much more!





While I was doing this I decided to remove my rear bumper to check for more rust. Found some surface rust. Time to take care of that right away. :zzz:





Clean!




Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 6 2022 04:27am
Found out my wheels are pretty beat up. This is why I don't like to buy used stuff, but unfortunately I had to because these wheels are discontinued. Luckily they were not cracked but 2 out of the 4 were badly warped. The shop said they could repair them without issues. But its going to cost me extra.



After they were repaired I had them powdercoated. Like new!! I went with gunmetal grey because originally they were the same color.





With tires



Not many people do this for their car. It has to be one of the worst jobs ever. I really hated life at this point.
Scraping all old undercoating off to reapply a new fresh coat. It's important because loose undercoating will trap water between the coating and the metal. It will rust like crazy. I was very happy to find out there was no rust to be found at all though.

It's very important to not use rubberized undercoating (most of the time to be found in spray cans) for the exact same reason as I mentioned above. these coatings will create a 'gap' between the coating and metal eventually. It WILL trap water and speed up rust. What you want is the tacky stuff that you paint on with a brush. Watch out for your clothes because it is nasty stuff.







Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 7 2022 09:04am
Picked up a used sunroof because mine is starting to rust behind the rubber seal. I only need the metal cover because the mechanism works 100% fine. I don't have a picture of it being painted :(





Had my rear trailing arms for the disc brakes sand blasted. Ready to be rebuilt again.
Smashing in the new trailing arm bushes was a pain in the ass.

I put the bushing in the freezer for it to shrink it a bit. And I put the trailing arm on the stove for it to expand :rofl: :rofl:

Looks stupid, but it worked. I need to buy myself a workshop press though. I have many more bushings and bearings to press.

It looks like my bushing is not leveled and I did that on purpose because when I lower the car, the bushing wants to tilts a bit. If you lower a car you tilt it a bit to prevent alot of stress on the rubber inside, that will shorten its life drastically.







Ready for some paint!! Very excited to install everything and put the wheels back on. Fun part is almost here - building the engine.

This post was edited by Gluurbuur on Aug 7 2022 09:16am
Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 7 2022 02:56pm
Progress!

Installed lots of parts this time.

Trailing arms + bushings
Adjustable toe kit
Adjustable camber kit
E-brake cables (still need adjusting)
Calipers (painted with high temp rust-oleum silver)
Rotors + pads
Wheel bearings
Dust cover (sand blasted and painted)
Coilovers
Mud flaps
Wheels!











Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 7 2022 05:39pm
Noticed I double posted a picture, can't edit post anymore :bonk:

Here is a pic of the lower control arms installed. And also installed steel braided brake lines.







Little bit of negative camber, don't want anything crazy. I like how the wheels don't stick out but tuck in just a tiny bit.


Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 8 2022 05:49pm
Installed a rear strutbar today to add rigidity to the suspension. Unfortunately I had to do some cutting to make it fit so I used some rubber trim to make it look better.





Also got my new pistons and rods. These are 75mm Suzuki Vitara pistons.
These pistons fit, but are slightly lower compared to Honda pistons.
Lower pistons cause lower compression, which means lower power and longer spooltimes for the turbo.

That's why I chose to use custom longer rods specifically made for these pistons. Left is a piston/rod originally used in the Toyota 4efe engine. They share the same bore diameter and rod thickness, but the D16z6 engine had a longer stroke.

Nice difference in thickness! This should be able to hold my power goal.

8 or 9 years ago I turbocharged a Toyota Starlet with a TD04 turbo (found in the Subaru Impreza) but I didn't open up the block to replace my connecting rods as it was too expensive at that time. I had it tuned on the dyno at 193 horsepower but I popped the engine after 6 months. One of the rods snapped and it shot out of the bottom end of the block. Massive disaster.





I started stripping my engine here. I labeled all bolts/nuts and put everything in boxes.



This post was edited by Gluurbuur on Aug 8 2022 05:54pm
Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 9 2022 05:14am
Time to work on the valve cover. Did some cleaning first and drilled two holes for AN10 fittings. When adding a big turbo to an engine you'd want to add some extra breathing lines to prevent pressure being built up in the crank case. Im running these lines to a catch can in the future because I don't want oil contaminated fumes back in my intake. I drilled the holes behind the baffle. After drilling two holes I drilled out the baffle to remove any metal shavings. After I cleaned everything back up I reinstalled the baffle.

Had the an10 fittings welded on after that, and decided to polish the valve cover by sanding it down.










SHINY!



This post was edited by Gluurbuur on Aug 9 2022 05:15am
Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 9 2022 02:52pm
Painted my intake manifold and replaced sensors. Also polished my fuel rail. OEM intake manifolds flows plenty enough from what i've heard.
Difference between 'new' and old one. I still need to change out my injectors but I want to start the car on OEM injectors, map sensor and stock tune first.






I also found my favorite blow-off valve for sale somewhere in Russia. Blitz supersound. Very happy with this. Took it apart to lube the piston and cleaned it with a steel brush.





Member
Posts: 5,172
Joined: Feb 10 2018
Gold: 9,183.69
Aug 10 2022 07:17am
Found some pics of my old Toyota Starlet sleeper which I built around 2014
Still miss it today, had to sell it because I needed the funds to move out.

Engine bay was so small. Fitting that intercooler was a pain.












This post was edited by Gluurbuur on Aug 10 2022 07:18am
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