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#21
Sep 12 2018 06:35pm
Quote (xVile @ Sep 12 2018 06:28pm)
Ok to clear a few things up, I have read all of the comments and nothing provided is going to work, however some things need to be cleared up.

These tanks are steel, and glass lined, making welding a no go because it would rust to fucking hell.

The intersection of the 4 sheets do not have a gasket, it is all bolted and sealed in and out.

The sealant is not available in a caulking gun tube.

The extremes these tanks are exposed to are simply the outdoors, nothing boiling and nothing freezing enters the tank.

Over sealing the joints from the inside when made is an excellent suggestion, and we do over seal to an extent. However with the tanks being up to 200ft tall the water pressure is very high when youre talking about all it needs is a very small void.


What causes the sealant to harden? Exposure to air? Is it 2 part that is combined to form a usable sealant?
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#22
Sep 12 2018 07:07pm
Quote (xVile @ Sep 12 2018 05:28pm)
Ok to clear a few things up, I have read all of the comments and nothing provided is going to work, however some things need to be cleared up.

These tanks are steel, and glass lined, making welding a no go because it would rust to fucking hell.

The intersection of the 4 sheets do not have a gasket, it is all bolted and sealed in and out.

The sealant is not available in a caulking gun tube.

The extremes these tanks are exposed to are simply the outdoors, nothing boiling and nothing freezing enters the tank.

Over sealing the joints from the inside when made is an excellent suggestion, and we do over seal to an extent. However with the tanks being up to 200ft tall the water pressure is very high when youre talking about all it needs is a very small void.


just curious what you mean by "glass lined"? welding stainless is of course doable, but in an outdoor application on something that large it would be a fairly involved weld, especially with the size you're talking.

If youre not using a gasket now, id suggest using one in combination with the sealant. Im not even sure what sealant is best, nor what gasket materials work with that. Think of old ships, plugged with coconut fibers and tar pitch. Its the physical barrier of the fiber filling most of the gaps, and not just the pitch. This also gives internal structure to the sealant, rather than it being a homogenous medium. you're likely getting breaks because of this. I would think some sort of textured sealant or a gasket could improve the strength of the seal in terms of pressure it can take.

This post was edited by thesnipa on Sep 12 2018 07:07pm
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#23
Sep 12 2018 08:43pm
Seems to me the only option is to just clad the problem spot with some very thick membrane/polystyrene foam cladding. The same stuff you use on floors in tiled bathrooms. If there is a hygienic issue, I'm sure there are products for that available.

This post was edited by Taurean on Sep 12 2018 08:44pm
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#24
Sep 14 2018 02:43pm
I'm do specialized swimming pool leak repair for a living one of the tools I use is basically a liquid hopper for polyurethane injections. A company named "seal-boss" manufactures water activated polyurethane & the actual gun (we actually use a modified paint gun instead). When I'm finished with the polyurethane injection I then clean the injection gun & hoses by pumping xylene (dissolvent) through everything. The gun & hoses last me years and otherwise would gunk up without the xylene.

This post was edited by Nestcle on Sep 14 2018 02:59pm
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#25
Sep 15 2018 09:58pm
Quote (xVile @ Aug 30 2018 06:57pm)
Hi, I'm Jordan I work with a company that builds water tanks and there is an aspect to it that has to have a more reasonable fix.

So these tanks are bolted together with sealer in between the sheets. Where the 4 sheets come together we call that a 4 corner joint. The 4 corner joint is where 9 out of 10 leaks come from.

To fix these leaks we take a grease gun with a metal needle on the end and pump sealer ( what the original sealer is made of ) into the 4 corner. It stops the leak dead as long as there isn't too much water in the tank causing pressure and it pushes the sealer right out.

So when we load the grease gun with the sealer (which is a 750 ml sausage tube) its only good for a day as the sealer can not be cleaned out of the gun. So you're talking a 20-30 dollar loss each time those days may come around. So over the year you could be talking 1000$ in guns alone.

The answer I'm looking for is what is an alternative to injecting the sealer and losing the gun after a day? You can't clean it out. you cant cap it and it not get hard. Different reusable tool?




You already know the solution. You need a smaller tube sealant system. If the company that you are purchasing them from won't make a smaller tube, then find one that will.
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#26
Sep 16 2018 08:06am
Why dont you use a kevlar sheet/caron fiber to cover the corner?
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#27
Oct 11 2018 12:16pm
Quote (xVile @ Sep 12 2018 06:28pm)
Ok to clear a few things up, I have read all of the comments and nothing provided is going to work, however some things need to be cleared up.

These tanks are steel, and glass lined, making welding a no go because it would rust to fucking hell.

The intersection of the 4 sheets do not have a gasket, it is all bolted and sealed in and out.

The sealant is not available in a caulking gun tube.

The extremes these tanks are exposed to are simply the outdoors, nothing boiling and nothing freezing enters the tank.

Over sealing the joints from the inside when made is an excellent suggestion, and we do over seal to an extent. However with the tanks being up to 200ft tall the water pressure is very high when youre talking about all it needs is a very small void.


If the tank is steel, isn't it rusting already?
If the tank is stainless steel, you can weld it and then use a process called passivating to draw the carbon (the part that rusts) to the surface which is then removed by simply wiping it off.
If the tank is steel and painted, do the weld to seal it and then wirebrush the weld and the surrounding area and simply repaint that spot.

One caution with welding, which may not be an issue in your application, if you fix the leak in one spot...sometimes others can show up in different spots where the pressure wasn't enough to push the leak through while one "opening" existed. Just be ready for a seemingly easy issue to transgress into a wild goose chase.
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#28
Oct 12 2018 07:14pm
I thought this was about fish tanks for a while at the beginning.

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#29
Nov 9 2018 11:22pm
Why can't the source problem be resolved? Why could these corners not be manufactured with some sort of gasket or sealant, be mechanically fused, etc? It's difficult for me to envision what you are speaking of exactly.

Maybe modify a gun with an internal liner. Basically, one that can be taken apart and loaded up with a pastry piper bag and your sealant? I suppose you could modify an outlet also to fully isolate the tool from the materials at all points. I'm not really sure, but I'd personally focus on an actual fix. Long term that will be the most cost effective, but, I don't know your situation and scale, so it's hard to say.
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#30
Dec 7 2018 03:55pm
Wow
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