Can I use multimeter to test if a car sub amp signal wire is good or bad?

Woke up today, amp not turning on...
Replaced fuses, cut ends of positive and negative cords to make sure I got a good connection.

When I turn car on.. I think I hear the amp fo poof for a sec.. then nothing.

So I'm thinking a bad wire from head unit to the amp? Bc that's a really tiny cord.... like paper thin...


I just got the red $29.99 Walmart multimeter, how do I use it, and can i?

Just in case that it is a bad Signal wire.... ( once i get it tested )... I was thinking of just getting a new signal cable, to run from the amp... directly to the radio/audio fuse , in the fuse box area by my gas/break peddles.
Not sure if i would wrap it around the positive or negative end of the fuse ? is there even a pos/neg end of a fuse?

the person who hooked up my old stuff, for my old car... did it via the fuse box instead of the back of the head radio unit.
Is that good or bad? does it matter?

personal thought.. its better b/c... take my head unit out.. will take me about 4 to 5 hours of time... ( a lot of extra steps in this car.. )

Would bad RCA cables / diconnected rca cables , cause the amp not to turn on?
I don't even hear the 3 fans turn on in the amp, so im assuming the bad signal cable is the problem... b/c the power cable is useless if there is no signal right?

i don't get a green or red light at all, but im pretty positive that my power/ground wires are good, and just recut fresh wires from amp to speaker, pos/negative to pos/neg


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if i don't hear anything, i'll just start watching some youtube videos,
just thought i would ask here for quicker help/ more professional details.


If I Take amp signal wire, and plug it into the fuse box, do I lose the HU's sub level control option? +15 bass? Or is that done via the RCA cables?

100% noob

This post was edited by conetopia on Mar 13 2018 12:30am

I got 2 Walmart led strips under dash board, and the wires scew Into a small box, that uhh.. is wired to a push button cigarette lighter thingy...

Could I connect my amp wire to that?
I would put it into the positive, but idk if that would work. Bc there is no negative??

The remote turn on wire for your amp needs to be connected to an accessory that turns on with the first turn of your car key. If you want to connect it in a fuse box, get your car's owners manual and look at the fuse box diagrams to see which positions turn on when the key is turned one click. A more reliable connection would be to run it from the radio but you can always fuse tap. The multimeter should work. I'm thinking there's a poor connection somewhere or your wire was crimped accidentally by a sharp surface in your car. Also check the fuses on the amp to see if they are bad. This will prevent the amp from turning on.

This post was edited by Zpot on Mar 13 2018 10:30am

Checked fuses, got new fuses just incase , still as I turn car on, I get a poof/thump noise from sub/amp area. Thought maybe bad remote wire... cut 4 inches of remote wire , and attached from amp, with the positive wire near the amp... as I connected them , I heard that same poof/thump noise as when i turn the car on. So the remote wire i assume is good, i also assume positive is good, but I still dont get any lights on the amp? Or sound? So I'm thinking, bad rca cables or ports?
Negative wire maybe not grounded enough? Or amp randomly blown?

If the amp is blown, I shouldn't hear any noise at all? But I still hear that weird noise when I turn car on, or touch remote to positive ect

Any ideas? Amp is at least 5 years old, slightly rusty, thinking it randomly went out?


Sunday night, I had the volume low bc I was using gps to get home, but the amp/sub worked fine. Bc I listened to music for last 5 mins home

Monday morning, I plugged in a old USB flash drive before I turned car on (that I havent used in 5 weeks, was sitting on kitchen table, was going to add music , but never did) and that's when my amp/sub wasnt working... so I'm thinking the USB flash drive maybe fucked up my head unit?

there's a poor electrical connection somewhere. check your ground point for rust/corrosion. I don't think the amp is gone yet but it could be getting close if the connections are in decent shape.

around the battery terminal, there is a ring with a screw/washer/nut , maybe b/c its warmer out, its dry metal?
same with the negative connection area, which is a screw into my car ( yes rubbed a Quarter size area of paint off )

was thinking of spraying water or WD-40 ?
to uh, help with the electricity contact/flow?
or would water/ wd-40 make things worse?

I bought that 35$ wire kit @ wal-mart the 680 RMS for 1200 watts... on a amp rated 500 RMS
the signal wire.. is like paper thin, is it possible to buy a different remote wire thats thicker?
Should i get the 100$ wire kit at best-buy instead? does it really matter?

the remote wires are always small #12 wire or even smaller, thats not what causing your issue. what it seems to me is a poor ground, is your remote wire hooked to your ignition wire? i think in most vehicles its the yellow wire?
Now for the Wire kit, i always use the Stinger kit, its pretty expensive but its good stuff, you get what you pay for, id go with the best buy kit just to have but i dont think thats the issue your having. let me stir this around for a bit and ill get back to yoy

Tried amp in a co workers car,
Didnt work. His worked. So new amo lpl

Probably weather issurs..

Lol stop