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Jul 17 2017 09:14pm
2011 6.7 cummins
----->apparently turbo is fairly new


Dash light comes on. No exhaust brake actuation though.

Don't know a whole bunch about troubleshooting them, I was honestly just looking towards the idea of ripping the turbo off and cleaning it and the actuator (will find a schematic so I can chase power first of all)

Any ideas or leads?



Also.. put one of the fuses in thinking it would help, it was the J9 I believe ("flex Fuel, t/t exhaust") and it cut out the programmer.. No power on any of the 4 settings.. what would cause That?

Thanks guys
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Jul 17 2017 09:57pm
Maybe a stupid question, but have to ask because you said the turbo is new. Is the vgt swapped for a second gen setup which has no brake?
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Jul 18 2017 05:54am
Quote (Slater420 @ Jul 17 2017 10:57pm)
Maybe a stupid question, but have to ask because you said the turbo is new. Is the vgt swapped for a second gen setup which has no brake?


Only stupid when we don't ask :P
Slater - The 11 is just a constant on/off brake like the 07.5-09 isnt it or does it have progressive breaking like the 13+?


As for the fuse, I don't have a 10-12 truck here at the shop to check right now but if I remember correctly J9 is a 5.7L only fuse and is left empty in the 6.7L's. Still should have no power behind it though so not sure if that actually is what caused your toona to freak out.

What tuner?
g56 or 68RFE transmission?
Deleted or Emissions present?
If the DPF is gone, is the EGR still in place and just unplugged? (check on drivers side, small 4 pin connector under intake manifold will be hanging free if this is the case)
How are you trying to get EB to come on? High idle warmup or on road?
If high idle, your IAT sensor needs to read a low temp in order for this to cycle on. If on road, what RPM and wheel speed?

This post was edited by jimmyhoud on Jul 18 2017 06:02am
Member
Posts: 9,045
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Jul 18 2017 05:57am
Quote (Slater420 @ Jul 17 2017 09:57pm)
Maybe a stupid question, but have to ask because you said the turbo is new. Is the vgt swapped for a second gen setup which has no brake?


That's kinda what I thought too, apparently the solenoid is on there though. I'll double check today, going off another guys words.. mistake 1 lol
Member
Posts: 9,045
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Jul 18 2017 07:57am
Quote (jimmyhoud @ Jul 18 2017 05:54am)
Only stupid when we don't ask :P
Slater - The 11 is just a constant on/off brake like the 07.5-09 isnt it or does it have progressive breaking like the 13+?


As for the fuse, I don't have a 10-12 truck here at the shop to check right now but if I remember correctly J9 is a 5.7L only fuse and is left empty in the 6.7L's. Still should have no power behind it though so not sure if that actually is what caused your toona to freak out.

What tuner?
g56 or 68RFE transmission?
Deleted or Emissions present?
If the DPF is gone, is the EGR still in place and just unplugged? (check on drivers side, small 4 pin connector under intake manifold will be hanging free if this is the case)
How are you trying to get EB to come on? High idle warmup or on road?
If high idle, your IAT sensor needs to read a low temp in order for this to cycle on. If on road, what RPM and wheel speed?



Yeah I'm assuming it must be on/off I've actually never driven this truck. It's fully deleted with a bulldog.

Trying to get it to actuate on highway - accelerate to 60mph from dead stop and let off
Thanks for the reply

This post was edited by Wimp on Jul 18 2017 07:57am
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Jul 19 2017 06:12am
Okay.

Bullydog hasn't made anything that will tune DPF Deleted on it's own. Your truck was either tuned and deleted with EFILive or H&S. My bet would be on EFILive since you have a bullydog. There is also a cheap route for deletes on the 07.5-12 trucks that uses simulators in the sensors that used to be hooked into the DPF & cat.

Crawl under the truck and look for something like this: https://puredieselpower.com/images/detailed/27/shib67sims(lrg).jpg Start looking at the firewall and back to about 2 feet in front of the rear axle along the exhaust. You'll see these connected into the old wiring if it was deleted with sims. There will be three of them on the inside of the frame rail.

If you see the sims, clean the actuator and turbo, try again. If no success, time for a new actuator.

If you do NOT see these, your truck was originally tuned by efilive or possibly an H&S product. With you swapping the bullydog tunes you have overwritten some parts of the original tune and quite possibly lost the exhaust break in the process. Your best bet would be to track down a previous owner and find out what was used to tune it. If you can't, take it to the dealer to have it reflashed to factory settings and bring a delete tuner with you to overwrite the factory flash unless you want to drive home in Limp mode. You can go EFILive, H&S if you can find one, or RaceME Ultra. All three are solid options that are supported by custom tuners. EFILive being favored.
Member
Posts: 9,045
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Jul 19 2017 06:40am
Quote (jimmyhoud @ Jul 19 2017 06:12am)
Okay.

Bullydog hasn't made anything that will tune DPF Deleted on it's own. Your truck was either tuned and deleted with EFILive or H&S. My bet would be on EFILive since you have a bullydog. There is also a cheap route for deletes on the 07.5-12 trucks that uses simulators in the sensors that used to be hooked into the DPF & cat.

Crawl under the truck and look for something like this: https://puredieselpower.com/images/detailed/27/shib67sims(lrg).jpg Start looking at the firewall and back to about 2 feet in front of the rear axle along the exhaust. You'll see these connected into the old wiring if it was deleted with sims. There will be three of them on the inside of the frame rail.

If you see the sims, clean the actuator and turbo, try again. If no success, time for a new actuator.

If you do NOT see these, your truck was originally tuned by efilive or possibly an H&S product. With you swapping the bullydog tunes you have overwritten some parts of the original tune and quite possibly lost the exhaust break in the process. Your best bet would be to track down a previous owner and find out what was used to tune it. If you can't, take it to the dealer to have it reflashed to factory settings and bring a delete tuner with you to overwrite the factory flash unless you want to drive home in Limp mode. You can go EFILive, H&S if you can find one, or RaceME Ultra. All three are solid options that are supported by custom tuners. EFILive being favored.


That's really interesting. I haven't noticed anything yet but I'm gonna take a look.

Yesterday I drained the coolant and began taking the turbo off to clean.. and thought well, it's boosting fine and the compressor fins are like new... hmm

Hooked the batteries back up got a guy to hit the button and couldn't hear anything.

I ended up taking the actuator off and leaving the turbo on. Jumper wired to plug and it wasnt kicking in . 122 ohms of resistance in the actuator lol. Peeled it in half and circuit board was soaked in coolant. RIP.

You definitely peaked my interest with the fact that it can't be just a bullydog. I got a actuator waiting for me so once I get everything buttoned up I'm gonna look into it. Thanks Jimmy!

This post was edited by Wimp on Jul 19 2017 06:41am
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