The board is super thin now as you can see which is a bonus seeing how the smaller you make everything else the better it will be. No one likes holding a thick handheld.



The video amp. It is a 2N4401 transistor along with a 33ohm and 330 ohm resistor. I will describe this later and how to install it.
Here's the schematic:

The unfinished regulator. I used the original 2200uf cap before the regulator and a 470uf cap after the regulator to smooth out the current. I still need to bolt on the heat sink as well as trim the board to be smaller.
The schematic: http://i.imgur.com/4GPuE.jpg





This post was edited by AbDuCt on Jul 20 2012 07:53pm

revamped my regulator board. the 2200uf cap was not needed because the original AC wall wart signal was really noisy where as the dc from my battery is not. i got away with using my 470uf cap and a 100uf cap i salvaged from the nes board. the regulator now does battery in -> 470 uf cap -> 7805 regulator -> 100uf cap -> 5v in.



i also included the hea tsink which needs to be trimmed a bit more (can cut an extra 1/4 of an inch off it) as well as a scored and snapped proto board. the entire thing is no larger then a quarter.





my video amp attached. i severely fucked my leads to the traces on my board so i couldnt use them any longer. instead i had to solder directly to the first component on the trace.

with that being said the wholes going left to right are weak video out, weak audio out, 5v in, and i forgot the sequence to the last two but they are for the power/reset switches which no longer work because we took them off. (also since we are applying power directly to the 5v in trace the console turns on without those switches. to add a switch i suggest adding one before your regulator (and before your screen coming off your battery so they both power down. unless you are doing a video out mod which i am going to do. then ill most likely use 2 switches. one for the screen one for the nes so that i can power down the screen while using the video out.)

audio amp is in the works just buying parts.

audio amp finished. made it as small as possible using the least number of parts. have the lm386 chip with the 10uf cap bridge between pins 1 and 8 to amp it produce its max gain (200).



its about as big as a dollar coin. uses a couple of 100uf caps a 0.047uf ceramic cap, a 10ohm resistor, a 10uf cap and the lm386 (well not really im using the equivalent called the NTE823) the red wire to the bottom right is 5v in coming off the nes board, the red wire at the bottom left is the amplified signal going to my speaker, the top red wire is going to my 1k pot, and the black wire at the top is my ground.



the soldering job is way neater than my regulator. i'll link the schematic i used at the end of the post. if anyone's wondering the thin piece of wire connecting the three pins is just a big ground rail. its the negative side of the ceramic cap that i just connected all the negative posts to and then soldered a black wire to it so i can attach it to ground somewhere.



im using temp wires on the pot for testing but they will be black and red and such for positive and negative. the way i hooked the pot up is negative on the wiper pin (usually middle), and the wire going to the amp on one side and the weak audio signal to the other side.

schematic that i ripped off a larger voice scrambler schematic.

http://i.imgur.com/2Hz8F.png
or if you want the minimal version provided with the lm386 here it is. (the lm386 and the nte823 are basically the same chip the pinouts are the same and both have pdf versions of their datasheets online)
http://i.imgur.com/REfHB.png

This post was edited by AbDuCt on Jul 28 2012 05:30pm

controller timesssss




extract the shift register from the old nes controller (you could just snap the nes pcb and resolder the traces with wire to make it fit better in your case but i decided to make my own controllers from scratch.)

now this is the tricky part and hard to explain so i will give you a schematic i found on the internet to follow. basically you solder together 47k resistors, momontary tactile switches, and a 16 pin dip socket together. although there are way to many solder points and wires to make you guys understand through images so ill just post the schematic at the end.



laying out the parts. i found that putting the resisters as close as possible to the switches helps allot in making it smaller although you need to use some more wires to make it work. if you follow the schematic exactly its simpler but way larger.



heres the finished D-PAD with all the switches wired in.

the backside of the D-PAD

i forgot to take pictures of while i was making the a/b/start/select board but heres the finished copy with a ribbon cable connecting it to the shift register.

heres the schematic.



all the colors must be connected ex: the brown line must be connected to the one labeled brown and the pin it is leading to.

to connect the a/b/start/select board. just wire the tact switches into the labeled pins and take the other side of the resistors and wire it into the white pin and take the brown side of the switches and wire it into the brown pin with the existing D-PAD wires.


props to ben heck for the schematic. i just labeled the other pins for a/b/start/select