If you were an audio installer people would be broke with nothing to show for... Safe doesnt come with a price tag it comes with knowledge and ability, if you educate people when they buy stuff then you dont have to worry about them breaking their systems. Fact is doesnt matter if their electrical is good or not the same guy that would blow shit on bad electrical would prob blow it on good electrical because they dont know any better. People think the gain knob is a volume knob and put no time and effort in their installs thats what blows systems not electrical. The only time electrical should be an issue is for people who want to go big. If someone buys 5,000$ in equipment and then gets 10,000$ electrical hes still probably going to blow his shit if you dont educate him.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 17 2013 04:57pm

i'll just point out the obvious flaw in your retarded and short sighted argument.......

HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR IS NOT A STANDARDIZED UNITS OF MEASURE OF ALTERNATOR OUTPUT

THEY DON'T RECOMMEND HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATORS SPECIFICALLY BECAUSE THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU DRIVE THEREFORE THEY DON'T HAVE ENOUGH INFORMATION TO SUGGEST AN UPGRADE

OHMS LAW IS A SCIENTIFIC FACT NOT A "FACT". GET EDUCATED BEFORE TRYING TO THINK YOU KNOW BETTER THAN ELECTRICAL ENGINEERS AND PRETTY MUCH THE ENTIRE SCIENTIFIC COMMUNITY.

YOU POSTED A VIDEO THAT TOOK 16 SECONDS OF PLAY TIME TO DROP HALF A VOLT...VOLTAGE DROP IS CAUSED BY THE ALTERNATOR NOT BEING ABLE TO OUTPUT ENOUGH POWER...ONCE AGAIN THIS IS A FACT.

sooo...to sum it all up....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anecdotal_evidence

http://imageshack.us/a/img822/9117/0114121716b.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img828/1116/0311121624b.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img526/8548/33587836795033655449910.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img837/6417/32077621679276772661218.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img853/4338/32027120781074718171218.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img121/2194/0524111924b.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img819/1760/0501111243a9502.jpg


btw just like 10 of the 50 installs ive done not involved with the shop I'm uploading about 50 pictures from my phone of work ive done on 50,000$ vehicles just to prove I dont fuck around.

They don't recommend it because anything from a 60a to a 150a will run that amplifier flawless they can recommend a 90a alternator or above if it's required has nothing to do with the fact "they dont know." they dont know what battery you have yet they recommend a bigger one. That shows how flawed your statement is.

My voltage may have dropped about .5 volts but I still sustained enough voltage to run my amplifier as it is not producing the power it says it's reguardless because of box rise and freq change in a song. It's irrelvent it went right back up and maintained for another 20 seconds as long as your system is doing that it's fine. I've never seen anyone blow something hitting 13.5v lmao. That song was one of my must abusive songs becuase it's a constant high note that wreaks havoc on my electrical yet barely drops.

Say what you want subwoofer but you're wrong here tell ya what I'll post on caraudio.com asking if I need alt upgrade for a DC 1.2K @ 1 ohm on a 90a alternator. We'll see my responses.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 17 2013 05:08pm

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/general-discussion/587388-do-i-need-alternator-upgrade-dc-1-2k.html#post8454872

theres the topic and while we wait for responses entertain me and please link us some picture of your work, maybe boxes you built installs you name it i wanna see one reputable thing you've done. Cause to me you sound like someone who got 2 type r's and thought u were loud and turned elitest like every 16 year old that comes into my shop asking questions.

go ahead

i want to see someone explain how voltage drops aren't caused by an underpowered alternator.

you don't even have a DMM to test voltage...you use the fucking factory gauge which isn't designed in the slightest to indicate precise and instantaneous readings. for all you know you were dropping to 11 volts on hard hits and the gauge simply couldn't keep up with it.

learn to use some common sense in your arguments.

i like the "going to do big 3"...what happened to not needing it?

This post was edited by Subwoofer on Aug 17 2013 05:16pm

I dont have a dMM? I have a $500 SEARS DMM with a clamp I've ran it full tilt before and tested I dropped 13.4v I said this already you assume way too much my factory meter is pretty damn accurate and I know how it works by now. You act as if I've never actually metered my electrical lmfao.



I never said it wasnt needed! LMFAO see putting words in my mouth I even said I recommend atleast a big 3 and/or battery upgrade. I just argued the fact of needing a H.O alternator. Page 3 half way down smartass. God this is entertaining.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 17 2013 05:19pm

on the contrary you did when you decided to say what DC audio recommends is all you need.

We recommend for installation
• 1 upgraded battery under the hood
• Dash mounted voltage meter

DC Audio does not recommend big 3 upgrade so clearly you agree its not needed.

It really isnt NEEDED I'm not running a big III it helps for dimming but really that's it you act like big 3 is night and day most 1000w setups run 4 or 8 gauge which is usually the size of most 90a-150a factory wiring. But I always recommend it over a cap for dimming. and honestly what DC reommends IS ALL YOU NEED.

This post was edited by Incriminator on Aug 17 2013 05:25pm

helps for dimming......dimming is caused by voltage drops...big 3 helps with voltage drop. so you agree that DC audio is wrong not to include it in the recommendations?

tell me...why do you think DC recommends the dash mounted voltage meter? because clearly if they thought all vehicles could run it without having voltage problems there would be no need for it right?